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Iron Maiden

5.10c, Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.2 from 26 votes
FA: unknown
Minnesota > Tettegouche SP… > Palisade Head
Warning Access Issue: Temporary Peregrine Falcon access restrictions DetailsDrop down

Description

(from the Falcon Guide) At least one person has liked this climb, though the torture never stops.

This climb is an off-width lover's delight! Or an absolute nightmare for everyone else. It starts with a fist crack and quickly widens to the first crux of chicken winging akwardness. After your wrists hurt and you're already sore, take a rest on a nice ledge and then go into the squeeze chimney to the top.

Location

On the south side before laceration jam area. Look for the wide crack with the obvious chock stone 5-10 feet down.

Protection

Some old pitons scattered...deffinitly want big gear if leading.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Lan and Kristina on Iron Maiden
[Hide Photo] Lan and Kristina on Iron Maiden
Right part of Iron Maiden found missing 4-10-24
[Hide Photo] Right part of Iron Maiden found missing 4-10-24
Pulling through the wide on this beauty of a pitch! Picture taken by Ethan Baker.
[Hide Photo] Pulling through the wide on this beauty of a pitch! Picture taken by Ethan Baker.
Me chicken winging through the crux on Iron Maiden with a new BD#8 keeping me cozy. Photo credit and big cam owner: Shane Steele
[Hide Photo] Me chicken winging through the crux on Iron Maiden with a new BD#8 keeping me cozy. Photo credit and big cam owner: Shane Steele
Matt on "Iron Maiden" 5.11a at Palisade Head, MN.
[Hide Photo] Matt on "Iron Maiden" 5.11a at Palisade Head, MN.
Matt on "Iron Maiden" 5.11a at Palisade Head, MN.
[Hide Photo] Matt on "Iron Maiden" 5.11a at Palisade Head, MN.
Squeezing through the owl pellet ledge on Iron Maiden.
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Photo: Tyler Porter
[Hide Photo] Squeezing through the owl pellet ledge on Iron Maiden. Photo: Tyler Porter
The top of the route.
[Hide Photo] The top of the route.
The route starts at the ledge and at its lowest point is 3.5 inches wide, becomes 9 inches, and after the ledge mid-route is 15 inches wide (narrowing to 13 inches at some points).
[Hide Photo] The route starts at the ledge and at its lowest point is 3.5 inches wide, becomes 9 inches, and after the ledge mid-route is 15 inches wide (narrowing to 13 inches at some points).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

josh columb
Saint Paul, Minnesota
[Hide Comment] I toproped this route earlier this summer, there are two pitons that I saw, one at the ledge at the start of the route and one 10-15 ft below top out on the face (climbers left). The first half of the climb, before the midway ledge has some chockstones in it wich could be slung on lead but we used them for hand holds and that reduced the difficulty quite a bit. Getting into the crack above thew ledge was the crux. Not as hard as ahabs. Aug 25, 2009
Sean Patrick
Minneapolis, MN
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] I loved this climb. Not quite as hard as
Generator Crack mountainproject.com/v/gener… , however. May be 10a, but Im not sure it quite gets there. Sep 1, 2013
Backwards Eric
Fargo, ND
 
[Hide Comment] I liked this. I measured the crack at different points with some thought of coming back some day and leading it. Unfortunately I don't know if they make a big-bro wide enough.

The route starts at the ledge where the crack ends and at its lowest point is 3.5 inches wide, becomes 9 inches, and after the ledge mid-route is 15 inches wide (narrowing to 13 inches at some points). There is a piton off to the left face above that mid-route ledge. Towards the top, when your whole body is well into the crack, there's a smaller fist sized crack in a right side wall that could potentially be used for protection too. Aug 1, 2015
Backwards Eric
Fargo, ND
 
[Hide Comment] Ok, led it on Saturday and it's not too bad for protection. C4 sizes: #4, #6, blue big bro, continue to big ledge, move up and clip piton on outside of crack (left), #4 would go in the deeper inner crack if you wanted it (but it's super secure chimmney by that point). I didn't do any nut placements in flakes on the outside of the crack because they're actually kind of loose feeling. Sep 6, 2016
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
[Hide Comment] Nice lead Eric! Sep 6, 2016
John J
Madison
[Hide Comment] Chock stone low on climb, as of October 2017, makes getting through the off-width and established in the chimney significantly easier. Posting this based on notes a couple years later, and am not sure if it is still there. Apr 2, 2019
[Hide Comment] Ha! I never did this route and I remember Dave Pagel sandbagging Jim Kennedy into doing it circa 1983? while I watched in horror as Jim grunted and swore the entire way up. Dave is alive today because Jim was just too cooked when he topped out to throw Dave over the edge. Apr 12, 2020
Taylor Krosbakken
Duluth, MN
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] The highest starting chockstone was removed on 8/27 easily by hand. It makes getting off the ledge a bit harder now.

Leading with the new BD 7 and 8 felt pretty casual. My rack in order was 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, piton, 4. Aug 31, 2020
Marah Slavik
Duluth, MN
[Hide Comment] The right side has completely fallen off. The crack looks to be smaller now, lots of loose rock around it. Found it this way on 4-10-24 Apr 10, 2024