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Josh's Hump
5.7 PG13,
Trad, 200 ft (61 m),
Avg: 2.9 from 20
votes
FA: Ross Purnell
Pennsylvania
> S Central PA
> Chickies Rock
> Main Wall
Description
Main Street Crack ends below a small tree/bush where most people escape right to Riverview Ledge. Josh's Hump continues straight up short slabby section of rock below The Great Roof to a stance in the left corner under the roof. Microstoppers or a #00 Camalot buys you some protection here before a scary traverse to the left out on a prominent, light-colored arete. The is the arete where Josh Laudermilch (seconding my lead) stopped to hug and/or hump the arete. Use a long runner on the gear in the corner to avoid rope drag on The Great Roof above. We regularly do this route in one pitch with long slings, especially under the roof. Communication with your second is difficult when you are on the summit and your second is under The Great Roof. Note: You can also start on Witches Brew, and move right up under the Great Roof before you head into the Chimney.
Location
Near the left side of the Main Wall about 30 to 40 feet to the left of the Library dihedral look for the long, left-leaning crack system that starts just to the right of the small buttress. (The other side of the buttress near the tree is Witches Brew.)
Protection
No fixed gear. Extra small stuff required for the crux moves under the Great Roof.
[Hide Photo] Amy steps out toward the arete of Josh's Hump, a blind, committing move that is considering the "High Exposure" move of Chickies Rock. Ben Annibali photo
[Hide Comment] Pink tricam and small purple nut allow one to bomber protect the upper crux traverse, but still need long slings to avoid rope drag.
Sep 14, 2017
[Hide Comment] This used to be called Kissing Wall, 5.6, way back when. I knew several people who did this in the mid 70s, so the climbing history on this one goes at least that far back. Climbing access was restricted for a long time by the railroad after the years that I climbed there a lot, and many of the old route names were lost. The same thing happened to a greater degree at Donation Rocks near State College. I climbed there a few times when I lived in State College but the landowner closed it then for years and many route names were forgotten or applied to other routes. I could make no sense of the MP page for Donation when I first looked at it last summer. But the important thing for both Chickies and Donation is that access is no longer an issue. Nothing makes me happier than to see Chickies now on public land, after being closed for so many years.
Feb 1, 2024
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Louisville CO
The same thing happened to a greater degree at Donation Rocks near State College. I climbed there a few times when I lived in State College but the landowner closed it then for years and many route names were forgotten or applied to other routes. I could make no sense of the MP page for Donation when I first looked at it last summer.
But the important thing for both Chickies and Donation is that access is no longer an issue. Nothing makes me happier than to see Chickies now on public land, after being closed for so many years. Feb 1, 2024