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Curiosity Killed The Cat
5.9+,
Trad, 1110 ft (336 m), 6 pitches, Grade III,
Avg: 2.3 from 8
votes
FA: Steve Rydalch, Paul Ross (var leads) June 13th 2009
Utah
> S Central Utah
> San Rafael Swell
> San Rafael Swel…
> Eastern Reef Ar…
> O Crags (Three Finger…
Description
A fine route with great situations. Starts up the long line of left leaning pot holes.
P1)Climb to a bolt at 25' . Continue past a total of six pro bolts to double anchors. 170'5.9.
P2)Climb steeply up three holes then traverse right passed one bolt to another line of pot holes ,follow this line passed one more bolt to block belays on a large ledge.180'5.7+
P3)Drop down onto the white slab ,climb up to the right and follow easy slab to natural anchors below the steep groove system .Natural belay.200'5.4 no pro.
P4)Enter the groove from the right and follow the left exposed edge with difficulty ..Total of three bolts and some cam placements to ledge and natural belay.180'5.9+.
P5)Scramble up right to a smooth v groove up this at its top a bolt (this bolt was placed on the FA of Raptilian Curiosity that comes up from the open groove down to the left.) this protects a 5.8 move over to the ridge on the right.Contine up easy ground to natural belay.200'5.8.
P6)Easy climbing along the left side of the ridge to junction with the top of 1000'of Fun.180'
Descent.:- Five raps down 1000' of Fun
Location
Drive to the entrance of Three Finger Canyon.The climb is located on the south side (to the left ) on the "1000' Feet Of Fun" formation. Starts about 150' to the right of the very impressive line of Reptilian Curiosity.
Protection
Camalots #.4 #.5 #.75#1 #2 #3 Slings,Quick draws. Two 60m ropes.
[Hide Photo] The Route. A)Reptilian Curiosity.5.11R B) Curiosity Killed the Cat.5.9+
[Hide Photo] 1000' fun wall with walk off info for Curiousity killed the cat
[Hide Photo] After a hard day at the office. That cat sure is fast!
Colorado Springs, CO
Flagstaff, Arizona
Moab, UT
How many bolts and on which routes are you talking about? Thats quite the comment as there are ALOT of bolts down there.
What other routes have you done of the nearly 200 routes?. We only hear of people doing the same old half dozen or so time after time in the whole Reef area.
Could you please report in the comment section of all the routes you have noticed loose bolts to help us and future climbers out.
As far as this route and all routes down there the bolt placements are done on the lead. Its all about where you can stop and put one in and sure sometimes they are in odd places. Have not heard of any bolts falling out so im sure it was just runout to the anchor. Will check it out next time im in 3 Finger.
Lastly, we figured 3/8 x 4" would be fine for slab climbing.
It might be a good idea to carry a spanner/metolius nut tool with hex heads and I will note that on the Slabs home page. Thanks for the heads up. Dec 6, 2012
Keswick, Cumbria
Wenatchee, WA
Keswick, Cumbria
Wenatchee, WA
The crux pitch you mentioned (the one after the white slab) was memorable, but wasn't that enjoyable. Gear was not trustworthy and bolts were good but scarce. I led all but P2. I still feel this is a 1 star route IMO but appreciate the time and effort you put into setting this route ground up. Oct 29, 2016
Keswick, Cumbria
Wenatchee, WA
I appreciate the time/money/effort put forth to create it. Thank you for doing so. But with that said, poor quality rock isn't for everyone. My rating of this climb reflects it, even if this is the Swell. You need not waste your time defending your lines against everyone that doesn't agree that they are classic. It is not a 4 star or 3 star route IMO. I would say most on in this canyon we saw were probably 1-2 star routes with cool remote vibe and fun summits. But I will wait until I have climbed the others to rate them. My rating is just one opinion. Let people determine what they think of a climb without attacking them and the ratings will settle where they belong.
But to help others out, as was my original intention... Yes you can walk off. I edited the beta photo with details of how in RED. I also posted pictures showing where we were on the summit and the look down the gulley to walk off. We ran into a couple at the base of the formation that had free soloed 1000' of fun and walked off via the same gulley.
Encourage more people to do this climb by doing the walk off next time you are there and confirming it has an easy descent. Others will rate and post relavent info as they desire.
Cheers. Oct 30, 2016
Keswick, Cumbria
Wenatchee, WA
Keswick, Cumbria
all over, mostly Utah