Type: Trad, 360 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,241 total · 19/month
Shared By: craigw on Jun 15, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route

6 Opinions

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3 excellent pitches make this a perfect intro to fremont canyon multi-pitch routes. To find this route, rap to the bottom of the canyon (we used the anchors for "Hang on loosely" and left a fixed line to retrieve later). Once at the bottom of the canyon, walk to your left past several climbs until you reach a beautiful looking dihedral. This is the first pitch to "Dopes on punk" The Slab route starts up the broken crack 30 feet to the left of it.
Pitch 1-Head up fingercrack and face for 80 feet, then traverse right to fingercrack. Head up to overhang, traverse right underneath to bolted anchors. 160 feet-5.9
Pitch 2-Head up through overhang and continue up crack until you can undercling/traverse left into crack system. Head up the dihedral to large ledge with bolts. 150 feet-5.10a
Pitch 3-Head straight up dihedral "Blood and guts." 50 feet-5.10c


Standard rack (doubles to #2 camalot) with extra small nuts and rp's for third pitch.


Casper WY
canyonclimber   Casper WY
This route goes at 5.10a if you move left from the top the second pitch belay station along the ledge to another set of bolts and up and out on 5.5. Poor communtication on second pitch because of river noise and belaying under roof, figure out some signals. Bring some small finger size pieces for the first pitch (.3,.4 BD size)
This route a must do for Fremont Canyon! Aug 19, 2009
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
Water was soo high you couldnt walk to the start of the route from the gully rap. We built an anchor on top and fixed a line down to the bolted belay above p1, then raped our lead line to a small perch at the base of p1. Excellent, excellent route. Thought the dihederal on pitch 2 was harder than 10a... Aug 3, 2010
Ty Gittins
Ty Gittins   bozeman
pitch one is more like 130 feet...beta alert...I found traversing right at the bush after about 30 feet to be where the route went. this pitch is really good. it is not clear where to go near the anchors...there was a hand traverse leading to the anchors that was chalked up, but it is easier heading to the roof and traversing over on positive crimps and jams. not sandbagged, but not easy 5.9 either. only placed one number 2 and no number 3s. Heavy on the .3 and .4 sizes....and takes offset stoppers really well. didnt do the upper pitches cause I took way to long on the first pitch. we bailed and then boulder hoped and hiked out farther up river. getting out of this area is not trivial, and we were considering prusiking our fixed line May 16, 2015
Black, blue, green alien (or equivalent) protect pitch 3 (10c) perfectly. Sep 14, 2015
From Hang on Loosely rappel, we couldn't access this route May 29th due to high water levels. Apparently this can also be a problem in August (from other comments) so it sounds like this way is out much of the year...though I don't know how the water is controlled. May 31, 2016