Long Distance Commute
Trad, TR, 60 ft,
Avg: 2.2 from 5
FA: Josh Columb/ Joe Nixon
> Tettegouche SP…
> Palisade Head
This route takes the left hand of two cracks in the corner to the left of Iron Maiden up to a ledge about 1/2 way up, than switch to the right hand crack. A short section of face climbing(crux), protected by a fixed pin in the face on the right, is followed by 10 more ft of a finger crack that splits the large block at the top. This is a surprising find at Palisade Head. An unclimbed moderate hand crack. I couldn't find it in any guide books, but wouldn't be surprised if someone did it a long time ago and just forgot about it. It basically just needed to be scrubbed clean of lichen. A fun moderate safe warm up.
This route is on the south side of the route Iron Maiden (large awesome off with/squeeze chimney). An anchor is best set up on the large block on the south side of Iron Maiden. You can easily rapel to a large ledge about half way down the face. There is a fixed pin in the corner (don't know how old it is)but ample anchors abound (large block can be lassoed).
The whole route can be safely led on trad gear 2" and smaller, mostly thin Hands to fingers. There is a fixed pin near the top between this route and Iron Maiden that can be clipped for extra security right at the second little crux