Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Middle Hawksbill

Appalachian Spring T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bongo Fury S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Carpe Freeum T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Courageous Grace Greenlee, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Green Wall T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Green Wave, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hard Rock Cafe S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hemlock Arete T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
If You Bolt It They Will Come S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jug Route T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lackey Vision S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lichen Inspector S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen Surprise S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lichen Worms T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Line of Fire S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Luciferin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lunch at the Y S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Manifest Destiny S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
No Free Lunch T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Prepare to Qualify S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pseudo Hardmen S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Real Hard Men S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tips Ahoy S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Triple Bypass T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tweakend (AKA Pascal's Route) T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Tom Howard, Lee Carter
Page Views: 1,812 total, 18/month
Shared By: gneiss pirate on Jun 15, 2009
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


15 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Start directly beneath the overhanging corner. Move up and left then back right, placing a few tcus. Climb straight up into the corner. Crank the stout corner move and float up the remaining crack/corner to one of the best belay ledges in the gorge.

To get down you have two choices. Move up and left to a large pine tree or locate a bolted anchor on the front of the belay ledge.

Location

Located at Middle Hawksbill. Follow the trail down from the main wall past all of the sport routes. Just past a long low roof is a steep, overhanging, left facing corner. This is it.

Protection

Medium tcus and medium to large cams. 2 yellow camalots are helpful.

Photos

- No Photos -
Brian Abram
Celo, NC
  5.11
Brian Abram   Celo, NC
  5.11
I started directly under the dihedral and clipped the first bolt of Foster Care (5.11a line that heads right). Then climbed straight up to the dihedral, passing a small roof highstep move before the crux move getting into the corner. This direct version was pretty pumpy with some bigger moves between jugs, bomber gear, and it felt 5.11 to me. A double rack of Camalots from .3 to 2 will sew it up.

The bolted anchor on the front of the belay buttress drops you straight into the top of the dying hemlock

May 4, 2017
Finally got the redpoint after a few days of effort. What an awesome pitch. I thought the gear was the crux but then again i am only 5'5. Definitively thought that it was an 11 though it did have solid holds through the crux. Sep 4, 2011
sean barb
winston salem, north carolina,
  5.11-
sean barb   winston salem, north carolina,
  5.11-
that belay ledge and its spot in the gorge is 4 stars. Aug 29, 2009
Ben Sachs
  5.11-
Ben Sachs  
  5.11-
Short crux and huge holds make this one pretty reasonable. Probably not 5.10 but certainly easier than other 5.11s around. Jun 18, 2009
Coz Teplitz
Watertown, MA
  5.10+
Coz Teplitz   Watertown, MA
  5.10+
I think this is a great route - wonderful rock, cool moves, deliciously steep without being heinously so. However, I think it's much easier than 5.11b/c - I give it a 5.10+. Maybe it's 'cause I'm tall, but I expected to fall on this many more times than I did.

Whatever the grade, it's worth the effort. Jun 17, 2009