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Routes in The Lair

Mammary Lane S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stone Warrior S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tap Line S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thriller T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, Alpine, 80 ft
FA: Wright & Tarrant, Spring 2009 FFA Mark Tarrant
Page Views: 71 total, 1/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jun 15, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Stone Warrior begins in a very tight and left leaning dihedral. An unusual series of moves gains a short clean block that is capped by a broad ledge. A low clip off the ledge allows the rope to be pinned out of the way in launching into the steep crux plate. The plate itself is solid at 5.12b and involves an intricate series of crimps and high steps. This is followed by a good rest and more moderate but pumpy and somewhat tricky climbing to the anchor. Overall SW is an interesting and quite good route. The rock quality is very good throughout and the climbing strenuous and varied. The ledge at 40 feet knocks a star off the rating.

The primary consideration with SW is the unavoidable reach problem coming off the ledge. A person much under 5'10" may have serious reach problems. At just under 5'8" I could only touch key holds that launch the series of crux crimps. Mark and I have tried some variations that attempt to avoid the reach problem, but these are significantly more difficult. We have discussed placing a block (rock or wood) on the ledge to at least get the shorter climber to the holds initiating the crux, similar to the start of T2 in Eldo that for years has begun off a stack of blocks.

High Kudos to Mark for running the red point after mis-sequencing the crux. Perhaps this route should be called piano fingers for all the fiddling needed to get back in sequcence and never let go!!

Location

Stone Warrior is the right of two routes presently on the West face of The Lair. Hangers are easily seen from the approach trail.

Protection

A dozen draws and a 60 meter rope.

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