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Fresh Garbage
5.10a,
Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 1.7 from 15
votes
FA: Bob Rotert, Diff Ritchie 1976
N Carolina
> 2. Northern Mou…
> Linville Gorge
> Table Rock
Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th)
Details
fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne… Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags
Details
The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
If you're on the south face, this is a fun diversion. As with all south face routes, this one can get hot.
P1: Climb the thin, arching dihedral, being aware of occasionally bad rock. Finish at a hanging stance at two bolts. (5.9, 80 ft) Note: climbing straight up to the bolts has been called 5.10 R. However, I find it much more like 5.7-5.8 R - and there is some pro in there.
P2: Make a hard, awkward move up past the overlap where the bolts are, then move up the obvious, thin feature. One more section of attention-getting climbing (some 5.9 slab at the old bolt) is passed before mantling onto the big ledge with several sets of bolts (the "Attic Window").
I often do this as one 50 m pitch by combining the direct variation of P1 straight into P2. This way, you're not falling directly onto your belayer at the crux, and it makes for a good one-pitch outing.
Location
This route is located on the South Face, just left of the Crackerjack corner/chimney system. Locate the obvious, right-arching dihedral with a pair of bolts partway up - that's your route.
Protection
Gear to 2".
![Fresh Garbage tops out on a beautiful balcony.]()
[Hide Photo] Fresh Garbage tops out on a beautiful balcony.
![Nate crushing the arch. Definately a lot of problem solving here]()
[Hide Photo] Nate crushing the arch. Definately a lot of problem solving here
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Cornelius, NC
Watertown, MA
Boone, NC
I had with me a rope, harness, a few slings, and one cam. Seeing a handy pair of bolts 60' up, I figured I might be able to trail a rope and rappel, so I started climbing, straight up toward those shiny metal rings.
All the doggone holds are pointing the wrong way, but underclings and a few decent slopers kept me going. Of course, I realized after 20' that reversing previous moves would be tricky at best; underclings and high steps work well going up but not so well going down.
I began to sweat the details I'd ignored upon arrival - little things like survival - when my wife moseyed up the trail to watch the fun. Much as the predicament amused her, she obliged me a belay as I scoped out the options. A single bottoming crack held some hope that it might hold the one cam I'd accidentally brought along for the ride, so I made my way thence, via another no-going-back sort of move. There is a God, the cam fit. It wasn't inspiring, but it wasn't obvious trash, either, so now my wife's belay might mean something.
Continuing directly upward looked real hard. I opted to slide left toward the corner system, making a couple hairy moves before clutching with desperation and relief the first decent holds of I'd felt in a long while. A pumpy layback sort of move up rightward and I spied a lovely pinchoff behind a block. Threading a runner, I soon had piece #2 ensconced on the route. I continued upward, a few more pumpy moves, utterly neglected the rusted 1/4" rivet, and clipped the anchors.
A quick glance upward made it obvious that continuing on sans gear would be unwise. I opted to rappel. We finished off the day at the Chimneys. I soloed easier, shorter stuff, but the excitement of that short pitch stayed with me the rest of the day.
For those heading up this route, a .75 Maxcam works in that one good slot; roughly that's = to a .5 or .7 C4. Tiny C3s might fit somewhere below, but I doubt they would yield adequate pro. Above that sole slot, I didn't see anything that would hold a real fall until you reach the crack or anchors. Oct 28, 2012