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Split - Split 8

5.8, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.2 from 42 votes
FA: unknown
California > Sierra Eastside > Lone Pine Area > Alabama Hills > Alabama Hills N… > Cattle Pocket &… > Cattle Pocket

Description

The Crux move is moving from under the roof up into the chimney. Make a few hand jams in the crack to gain footing on the face as you move up and left into the chimney. From there it is a good face climb but if needed at the bottom you can do some chimney moves. Keep an eye out for some great side pulls on the face of the front wall.

Location

The start is in the crack under the roof to the right. There hooks on top of the route but before you Rap off you might want to consider setting a Top rope on the same anchor for the Face route Chardoney Champagne 5.9 just to the right.

Protection

Seven Bolts with two open cold shuts on top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

"The Split".<br> Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] "The Split". Photo by Blitzo.
Pulling the Crux move up into the chimney of the Split.
[Hide Photo] Pulling the Crux move up into the chimney of the Split.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Blitzo
 
[Hide Comment] It's actually just called "Split". Jul 7, 2010
Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Actually, its called 'Split 8'...not The Split or Split. Sep 14, 2010
Justin Tomlinson
Monrovia, CA
 
[Hide Comment] The opening moves are very different from most climbing in the hills and thus make this a fun route. It's kinda chossy. May 6, 2012
Petr
  5.8
[Hide Comment] didnt seem chossy to me. Great route with perfect jams at the bottom!! Really good! Around first bolt it's the crux, if you use the crack. Apr 15, 2013
Andrew L
  5.8
[Hide Comment] 5th hanger and bolt are loose as of 4/24/19. hanger may have been tightened by climbers after us, but bolt wiggles as well. fun climb. start is the crux. good mix of moves. May 4, 2019