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Counter Curse
5.11+,
Trad, 100 ft (30 m),
Avg: 2.6 from 7
votes
FA: JJ Schlick 2008
Arizona
> Northern Arizona
> Oak Creek Canyon
> Waterfall
> 2. The Main Amphithea…
Description
Counter Curse offers some really good climbing on bulletproof black rock that is bookended by two hard-to-decipher cruxes. Begin as for Dark Arts, but just before the bolt on that pitch traverse left along a horizontal to a roof/alcove. Clip a bolt here and step up into a V-slot. All I can say is good luck. Maybe try that SuperTopo Harding Slot beta...
Above this follow a vague corner with thin gear to some jugs about 20' below the anchors. A difficult move here leads up to some good edges and the chains. This is a brilliantly perplexing climb.
Protection
Thin pro (gear to 1/2"), wires, draws.
![Moving into the mysterious low flare crux... This section has shut down many an onsight attempt!<br>
My tall boy beta is to layback the flare pinch facing left. There are a couple different crimps out right to balance, and then a small dead point to a wrapper jug, which is still to the right of the flare....]()
[Hide Photo] Moving into the mysterious low flare crux... This section has shut down many an onsight attempt! My tall boy beta is to layback the flare pinch facing left. There are a couple different crimps ou…
![Myself on an early run...]()
[Hide Photo] Myself on an early run...
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