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Routes in The Long Wall

Chewy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fifty Fifty S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flight Path S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flirting with E S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Going Ballistic S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Maximum Overdrive S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Menace Alert S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Minimum Overdrive S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
No Way, Jose' S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
On the Porch S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Quarryman's Hands S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ragged Reaction S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rocky Top Hilton S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Seven Minutes of Heaven S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Six Dollars S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spice S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stone Cold Dixie S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Under the Milky Way S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Chris Petty, Bill Davies, 1996
Page Views: 548 total · 5/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Jun 14, 2009
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Start by climbing up a flake system with excellent holds to reach the roof. Clip the bolt in the roof, grab the excellent jug at the lip and crank up finding small but positive holds to eventually reach a jug (crux). From here, diagonal up and right a bit over giant flakes and make a mantle move to reach the shuts. The beginning and end are quite easy for the grade(probably 5.9 or so). The roof is the business and coolest part of the route.

Location

Continue past the Under the Milky Way, World at War, and Maximum Overdrive along the trail. Locate an obvious flake system below a roof in the next section of wall.

Protection

5 bolts, shuts.

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Matt Powers
Madison, VA
5.11c
Matt Powers   Madison, VA
5.11c
Got on it yesterday and the bolts & anchors looked a bit sketch. All are quite rusty, and the right-most anchor didn't look fully seated. Nothing seemed too loose, but I tried to avoid unnecessary loading of any of the fixed gear.

The route itself is fun, and if you like powerful moves and dislike footwork, this roof is for you. Sep 27, 2016
Chris Whisenhunt
Fayetteville, WV
Chris Whisenhunt   Fayetteville, WV  
How was the bolt not seated? What type of bolts were they? Sep 27, 2016
Matt Powers
Madison, VA
5.11c
Matt Powers   Madison, VA
5.11c
Chris, I can't remember exactly, but I want to say it was cold shuts with non-stainless bolts, and the right-most anchor looked like it had a 1/4" gap between the gear and the rock and was a little cocked, where the left one was still flush. If you (or anyone) get a chance to look at it I would be interested to hear the verdict. Oct 10, 2016

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