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Pale Skinned Nebraskan (submitted as (Enter) Sandman)

5.10a, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 3.4 from 128 votes
FA: David Kozak, 1980s
Colorado > Durango > E Animas > J. Jabba Buttress

Description

This is a great route on soft looking but highly featured sandstone - it is the sandstone version of tufa climbing. The cruxes are at the first bolt and another is at the fun mantle midway.

Location

It is located 20 feet right of I Need a Shower.

Protection

Bolts and a fixed stopper at the roof - eleven clips. There are fixed biners at the anchor.

Per David Kozak: the FA was done with two bolts and one fixed wire in the upper dihedral.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

"Enter Sandman" @ East A.
[Hide Photo] "Enter Sandman" @ East A.
Movin' up.
[Hide Photo] Movin' up.
The route nearing the awkward mantle, I Need A Shower to the left.
[Hide Photo] The route nearing the awkward mantle, I Need A Shower to the left.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Marty Brenner
Durango, CO
  5.10
[Hide Comment] Fun route but lots of still soft rock in the middle. Should clean up nicely with use. Fixed nut in crack is gone, but you could place a small piece or just skip it and not worry. Jul 19, 2009
Thaddeus Ferrell
Durango, CO
[Hide Comment] GOOD NAME. Sep 18, 2010
YDPL8S
Santa Monica, Ca.
[Hide Comment] 9 pictures for 70 feet of climbing? That's more beta than you get for most boulder problems. If it wasn't for the fetching model in this beta/topo, I'd cry foul. Oct 26, 2011
Tim Kuss
Durango, CO
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Word. She was fetching the quickdraws. OOps, I didn't realize they had people patrolling this site for fowls. Oct 26, 2011
chosspector
San Juans, CO
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] YDPL8S proves that you can't post ANYTHING on mountainproject without some dude from Cali (or Boulder) flaming you for no reason. Cool, bro!!!! Nov 3, 2011
YDPL8S
Santa Monica, Ca.
[Hide Comment] Hey Choss, in my mind it wasn't a flame, I thoroughly enjoyed the pics. Now if they were of me, I would call foul. BTW I am from Cali now, but I cut my climbing teeth in good ole Gunnison, Co. Nov 4, 2011
David Kozak
The Earth, Our Mother
 
[Hide Comment] I did the first ascent of this route back in the mid '80s using two bolts and one fixed wire in the upper dihedral. I think I named it Pale Skinned Nebraskan, though I don't recall for sure. It was pretty much an "R" or "X" lead when I did it. Enter Sandman is a retro-bolted version. I'm happy Tim put in the time and money to make it a route that many now enjoy. It's a fun route and deserves traffic. It's original version was perhaps never repeated. Sep 24, 2017
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] The retrobolted version is much appreciated. Extremely safe feeling and very well-bolted. The hint of the "old days" comes from the red sling to piton that you need to clip. Sweet! Jun 10, 2018
PatMas
Tulsa, OK
[Hide Comment] The fixed stopper for this route is missing. We didn't bring gear up the route, but I'd guess a medium large stopper or a maybe 0.3-0.5 cam. Sep 22, 2020
Josh Anderson
Durango, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Optional 0.4 for the roof about 3/4 of the way up. Nov 22, 2020
Andrew Kelleher
Durango, CO
 
[Hide Comment] IMHO the roof is the crux, and I'd strongly recommend bringing either a 0.5 or a 0.2 (black Totem) to protect it. If there used to be a fixed piece there, shouldn't someone just throw another bolt in? If there wasn't a ledge just below, I wouldn't bat an eye, but it's not a clean fall. Aug 11, 2021
Nolan Robertson
Durango, CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] I have taken the fall without the gear in, it was completely fine. I do agree it is scary though! Aug 11, 2021
nate post
Silverthorne
 
[Hide Comment] I used to live in Nebraska! I'm pale skinned! I figured this route was bolted for me. Being my first time up to East Animas, I decided this would be a good choice for first route to climb. It is a great climb with lots of variety and fun features. This pale skinned, former Nebraskan enjoyed it. Jan 25, 2022
Zack S
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Great route. The mention of missing gear had me a bit worried that there'd be a sketchy runout section between bolts, but I didn't find that to be the case. If you can get the mantle, which is well-protected by a bolt, then the next section is not going to be a challenge. Fear not, climb on! Oct 26, 2023