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Hollow Head Crew/Forearm Direct

5.12a, Trad, Sport, 55 ft (17 m),  Avg: 3.4 from 25 votes
FA: John MacLean TR. Ryan Richetelli
Connecticut > Eastern Coastal… > Chatfield Hollow Main…

Description

Forearm Direct aka The Hollow Head Crew. This line starts 15' to climbers right of the Forearm Frenzy flake on some cool slopers and crimps and blasts up to a huge hanging jug in the middle of the wall. Finish straight up on Forearm Frenzy or the various Forearm finishes. This climb is very popular and the stronger locals will often "warm-up" on it in their Guide Tennies.

Location

Z crack, Forearm Frenzy Wall.

Protection

Glue-ins and then gear.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Ali going big.
[Hide Photo] Ali going big.
Mike Russel on lead.
[Hide Photo] Mike Russel on lead.
Local Mike Russell
[Hide Photo] Local Mike Russell
Ali in perfect fall conditions
[Hide Photo] Ali in perfect fall conditions
Follow the yellow route.
[Hide Photo] Follow the yellow route.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

John Biehn
Madison, CT
  5.12- X
[Hide Comment] This was always known as a direct variation to Forearm Frenzy 5.12-'ish... When was the FA? Was it done on TR? I redpointed this on TR in the spring of 2000- I'm sure it had been climbed before that.... Jun 15, 2011
M Sprague
New England
 
[Hide Comment] The route is about 25+ years old and named for the crew of knuckleheads who came bounding through while Whitey (John MacLean) and I were working on the problem. The leader, who looked like he spent all day benchpressing said "We're climbers too. We don't use ropes though" (Think Stallone voice, and no, they weren't boulderers) Jul 3, 2011
John Biehn
Madison, CT
  5.12- X
[Hide Comment] Haha.. that is awesome! Its good to know more of the history about this place. Do you know who drew the old topo for this place? I remember having some handed down drawings of this place in '99 or earlier.... Sep 16, 2011
GymRat
[Hide Comment] Led this...could use a bolt or 2. May 18, 2012
mitchy B
nunya gotdamn business.
[Hide Comment] I was out there the other day and there are bolts to the left of the Z crack, and anchor chains at the top. Haven't been there in a few years but someones been having fun with bolts. Jul 24, 2012
Adam Constantilos
Colchester, CT
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] V4 boulder into an amazing rest then a v3 boulder to the top, one of the better 12a's in CT. Oct 21, 2022