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Unknown 5.10a

5.10a/b, Sport,  Avg: 2.4 from 45 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > San Luis Valley > Penitente Canyon > Penitente - Inner Canyon

Unknown 5.10a

Left of Jewel of the Mild and right of the Brown Sugar Wall are two bolted lines not in the guidebook. An unknown 5.6 route goes up a low angle ramp. To its right is this route.

There is an obvious, left-trending crack below the first bolt. If the first bolt is a little too high for your liking, you can easily protect it with a number 2 cam, but the climbing is fairly easy and secure to the first bolt. Continue on up another bolted crack to a steep bulge. This is the crux and will probably cause you to slow down. The moves are around 5.10a. Figure it out and then make some more nice moves on up to the two bolt anchor.

It is worth doing (as opposed to the ramp route to its left).

Location

Left of Jewel of the Mild and right of the Brown Sugar Wall are two bolted lines not in the guidebook. An unknown 5.6 route goes up a low angle ramp. To its right is this route.

Protection

Bolts and possibly a #2 cam.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Dan in the thin crux.
[Hide Photo] Dan in the thin crux.
Routes between Brown Sugar Wall and Jack and Diane.
[Hide Photo] Routes between Brown Sugar Wall and Jack and Diane.
5.10a left of Jack and Diane.
[Hide Photo] 5.10a left of Jack and Diane.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

BGreen
Del Norte, CO
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] This is a great route...well protected crux for the budding 5.10 leader. Mar 20, 2011
Ben D.
Colorado
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Really fun route. I agree with Green, a good route for those breaking into the grade. The 10a-ish crux is well-protected and comes about halfway up, just below the shelf. One, maybe two, moves of 10a, the rest is a confidence booster! Oct 30, 2015
aha
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] This is not a 10a. Beautiful climb and amazing, thought provoking moves. I felt this was the best route we had done over the weekend, but 10a is hurtful to the YDS. Jun 9, 2019