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Routes in Dixon's Wall

Boom! S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Buffalo Soldier S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bussey's Bulge S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Captain Kirk's First Voyage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Carpe Stalactite S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Chinese Water Torture S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dixon's Delight S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
End Justifies the Knees, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hindenberg's Harmonica S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
In Vino Veritas S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lizzard the Gizzard S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
OMG! S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Out of Africa S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Peacefull Warrior S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pole Dancing S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rodeo Lover S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wait! Wait! Stop the Bus! S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Jeff Elison & Liz Grenard (JE bolted this climb ground up, on lead)
Page Views: 1,268 total, 12/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Jun 13, 2009
Admins: John Byrnes

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Description

Awesome and sustained. After stick clipping the first bolt sort through an interesting sequence of moves to the second. At the base of the stalactite band, this route turns up the heat! There are good holds, but they can be hard to find. If you can, get as much beta as you can get before launching into the section. Fight the pump all the way to the anchors.

Location

Starts just right of a large flat boulder (Bussey's) where the approach trail meets the wall. Stick-clip #1 and go straight up (hard) or climb in from the left.

Protection

10 TITANIUM bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
John Byrnes
Fort Collins, CO
John Byrnes   Fort Collins, CO  
Mary, Lizzard was put up in 1996 and is about 80 feet long. Jeff bolted it on lead, ground-up, using stainless steel expansion bolts.

It was re-bolted in 2000 with titanium glue-in bolts (courtesy of yours truly) and the rotting steel bolts removed. Aug 25, 2013