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Routes in Orange Pipeline Crags

Two Clove Hitches and A Microcam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1+ R
Type: Trad, Aid, 70 ft
FA: D. Brayshaw 2003
Page Views: 369 total, 4/month
Shared By: Dru on Jun 13, 2009
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

This route was established as a roped solo aid climb. It takes a prominent, clean right-facing dihedral through a roof, with thin moves (hook and knifeblade) to start then widening cracks with good cam placements. Above the roof, the crack widens, becoming a mossy offwidth with some mandatory free-climbing (5.8, #4 Camalots). At a ledge about 5m below the mossy slabby cliff top, the route finishes at a bolted anchor. The bolts used on the FA were the wrong size for the drill bit and are only half-driven in their holes, resulting in a slightly-more-than-bodyweight rap anchor that requires replacement.

A little bit of cleaning and an anchor upgrade should see this route go free around 5.10+.

Location

Walk the road east from the pipeline for 2 minutes and look uphill to see the prominent dihedral.

Scary, dangerous rap - be prepared to replace the rappel anchor bolts if doing the 2nd ascent of this line, or push it through to the dirty topout on the cliff.

Protection

One knifeblade, Talon hook, nuts and cams to 4".

Photos

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