All Locations >
International
> N America
> Canada
> British Columbia
> Fraser Valley
> Orange Pipeline Crags
Two Clove Hitches and A Microcam
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British A1+ R
Type: | Trad, Aid, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | D. Brayshaw 2003 |
Page Views: | 867 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | Drew Brayshaw on Jun 13, 2009 |
Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
This route was established as a roped solo aid climb. It takes a prominent, clean right-facing dihedral through a roof, with thin moves (hook and knifeblade) to start then widening cracks with good cam placements. Above the roof, the crack widens, becoming a mossy offwidth with some mandatory free-climbing (5.8, #4 Camalots). At a ledge about 5m below the mossy slabby cliff top, the route finishes at a bolted anchor. The bolts used on the FA were the wrong size for the drill bit and are only half-driven in their holes, resulting in a slightly-more-than-bodyweight rap anchor that requires replacement.
A little bit of cleaning and an anchor upgrade should see this route go free around 5.10+.
A little bit of cleaning and an anchor upgrade should see this route go free around 5.10+.
0 Comments