All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Fraser Valley Area > Orange Pipeline Crags
Two Clove Hitches and A Microcam
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Routes in Orange Pipeline Crags
|Two Clove Hitches and A Microcam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1+ R|
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 70 ft|
|FA:||D. Brayshaw 2003|
|Page Views:||369 total, 4/month|
|Shared By:||Dru on Jun 13, 2009|
DescriptionThis route was established as a roped solo aid climb. It takes a prominent, clean right-facing dihedral through a roof, with thin moves (hook and knifeblade) to start then widening cracks with good cam placements. Above the roof, the crack widens, becoming a mossy offwidth with some mandatory free-climbing (5.8, #4 Camalots). At a ledge about 5m below the mossy slabby cliff top, the route finishes at a bolted anchor. The bolts used on the FA were the wrong size for the drill bit and are only half-driven in their holes, resulting in a slightly-more-than-bodyweight rap anchor that requires replacement.
A little bit of cleaning and an anchor upgrade should see this route go free around 5.10+.
LocationWalk the road east from the pipeline for 2 minutes and look uphill to see the prominent dihedral.
Scary, dangerous rap - be prepared to replace the rappel anchor bolts if doing the 2nd ascent of this line, or push it through to the dirty topout on the cliff.