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Routes in Creamy Salmon Wall

Black Velvet S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bone Flex S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bone Machine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bone, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sterling Coach S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wishbone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Zootie Head S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: S. Johnson
Page Views: 939 total, 9/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Jun 11, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a great route with hard crux in the middle. It seems like a crimp broke off of the crux. After talking with a local who also said it had broken, this seems to be the case. After sending it I felt like it was probably .13-. the crux is harder than any other move on the wall and harder than any move on Full Facial. Maybe a V7 mono crux? You are coming right off of a decent shake, so the pump isn't much of a factor.

I'd say this route is probably .13- now.

Location

It is in between Bone Flex and Bone Machine.

Protection

9 bolts.

Photos

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steph johnson
Roanoke (DENTON)
steph johnson   Roanoke (DENTON)
I always thought it was 12c, but what do I know, lol.... Mar 31, 2015
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.13a
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.13a
There are at least three ways to try the crux...the V7 mono, the straight up variation, and the left variation. Seemed like the left variation was the easiest...I'll give it soft 13a with that beta. Oct 5, 2014