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Routes in Goldrush Area

Americana Arete T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Five Card Draw S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Silver Stage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stone Combat S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 300 ft, Grade II
FA: Rex Wolters
Page Views: 2,935 total · 26/month
Shared By: Lee Frazer on Jun 11, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This climb is on large slab right of Gold Rush ice climb. It is immediately left of Silver Stage and is 3 pitches (30m each) in length. Please note that the second pitch contains a runout section between the first and second bolt, which is marginally protectable with a small nut or cam.

Protection

12 quickdraws and a 60 meter rope. Helmets would be a good idea as a party on Silver Stage could kick rock onto this climb. Rappel the route.

Photos

Hey Guys,

I put this up a couple years ago, it still needs a couple bolts on the 1st pitch to do it like I wanted, Eurostyle. 4 30m raps. I thought it was 5.7 and the one on the right was 5.8. Didn't mean to sandbag. I called it the 14 Carat Mind, but Pancho and Lefty is great. One of my all-time favorite songs. Glad to hear someone else has climbed it. I'll get over and finish the job, sorry.

Cheers, Clint Cook Aug 6, 2009
Lee Frazer
Durango, CO
 
Lee Frazer   Durango, CO
 
Yes, great song (I'm a Townes Van Zandt fan myself). The guys in Silverton consider this a 5.9 and I could see that. Though most of it felt 5.7-5.8, there's a short section near the top of the first pitch that could go 9. Aug 13, 2009
Lee Frazer
Durango, CO
 
Lee Frazer   Durango, CO
 
Thanks Rex. Will make the change! The .11 you put up looks fun. Sep 2, 2009
Hey Guys,

I thought Five Card Draw followed the protectable crack features which the sport line crosses a couple times. I climbed that a couple times and thought the better climb was on the slabs surrounding the features. I did not mean to retrobolt anything. I thought it seemed like an independent line. Sep 27, 2009
chosspector
San Juans, CO
 
chosspector   San Juans, CO
 
Clint, I think it is a great line and you did a good job bolting it. I guess it's hard to tell what the 'line' is on that wall, it's all really climbable. The Petzl stainless bolts you used are bomber, thanks for spending the extra $$ to ensure a safe long lasting route. Sep 28, 2009
Lee Frazer
Durango, CO
 
Lee Frazer   Durango, CO
 
I agree. The retro-bolting on Five Cart Draw was well done, Clint. It's a fun climb, and made all the more fun w/ the safe bolting. Sep 29, 2009
ozman
CO / NM
ozman   CO / NM
Good route. Much cleaner than Eureka Pillar. This would have some spicy moves for 5.7; I'd grade those moves at 5.9 as well. I hate slabs though. I'd leave the doubles at home. Easy 30m raps with a single 60m rope. You would still have to make 2 raps with doubles, so saving one single rap is not worth dragging another rope up there. Not as dirty as everyone says. However, with any alpine-like climb, be a good steward and help clean the route. Car to car took us 2 hours. Did this the same morning as Hard Rock Miner on the Eureka Pillar. Nice bolt job. Sep 18, 2011
Cody Ferguson
Durango, CO
 
Cody Ferguson   Durango, CO
 
Did this route yesterday afternoon. 3 pitches, 300' total, 100' per pitch. It's a rope stretcher, but it is possible to do this with one 60m rope with 3 30m raps to the ground. Aug 12, 2016
Greg R
Durango CO
  5.9
Greg R   Durango CO
  5.9
Great route, runout on P2 has a spot in the gully for #2 tricam and #7 stopper a bit higher. I saw someone had bailed at lower draw. This route may need another bolt for the beginning leader. Take a 0.1 Camalot to anchor belayer on ledge at start or stick clip first bolt. We were glad to have a 70m for the rap. Jul 10, 2017

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