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Routes in Goldrush Area

Americana Arete T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Five Card Draw S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Silver Stage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stone Combat S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 450 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Rex Wolters (and others?)
Page Views: 3,128 total, 30/month
Shared By: Lee Frazer on Jun 11, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a decent climb on wide slab/ramp RIGHT of the Gold Rush ice climb. It is well-protected and in a beautiful location. There is some loose rock on pitches 3 & 4. (I don't suggest climbing under other parties.)

Silver Stage starts on right side of slab; it goes for 3 pitches up slab; the fourth pitch works its way up buttress above slab.

Pitch 1 - 5.10c.

Pitch 2 - 5.8/9.

Pitch 3 - 5.8/9 R. This goes up a Class 3 gully (2 bolts) to short 8-10' section of 5.8/9 (2 bolts, 1 spinner) to large car size ledge - anchor's on the right side of ledge.

Pitch 4 - 5.9. From the ledge, the climb traverses right for 20', then up dihedral for 100'. It is exposed and beautiful (maybe the coolest pitch). There is loose rock in spots.

Descent: 3 rappels (with one 70m or two 60m ropes).

Given the altitude and remoteness, this climb should not be treated like a sport climb at the local 50' crag:

- Temps can change quickly up here, so dress accordingly.
- Loose rock is prevalent on pitches 3-4. Therefore, helmets are a must.

Commitment:
This is Grade II for experienced multi-pitch climbers and Grade III for others (which is the original rating).

Protection / Equipment

This is well-bolted with 12 bolts. Wear helmets. Bring one 70m or two 60m ropes to get off. Carry layers for temperature changes. This climb is in a tight canyon with limited sun.
S.Mckinna
Cañon City, CO
 
S.Mckinna   Cañon City, CO
 
The first rappel is pretty wild! Jul 14, 2011
tyler88
Durango, CO
  5.10c
tyler88   Durango, CO
  5.10c
Quality, quality route. This can be done safely with a single 70m rope with a tactical rap using one intermediate station on Five Card Draw. You also must down-climb the last five feet to the ground. Two ropes might just be worth it.... Anyways, great route! Sep 12, 2010