Avg: 2.7 from 11 votes
|Type:||Sport, 450 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Rex Wolters (and others?)|
|Page Views:||3,128 total, 30/month|
|Shared By:||Lee Frazer on Jun 11, 2009|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is a decent climb on wide slab/ramp RIGHT of the Gold Rush ice climb. It is well-protected and in a beautiful location. There is some loose rock on pitches 3 & 4. (I don't suggest climbing under other parties.)
Silver Stage starts on right side of slab; it goes for 3 pitches up slab; the fourth pitch works its way up buttress above slab.
Pitch 1 - 5.10c.
Pitch 2 - 5.8/9.
Pitch 3 - 5.8/9 R. This goes up a Class 3 gully (2 bolts) to short 8-10' section of 5.8/9 (2 bolts, 1 spinner) to large car size ledge - anchor's on the right side of ledge.
Pitch 4 - 5.9. From the ledge, the climb traverses right for 20', then up dihedral for 100'. It is exposed and beautiful (maybe the coolest pitch). There is loose rock in spots.
Descent: 3 rappels (with one 70m or two 60m ropes).
Given the altitude and remoteness, this climb should not be treated like a sport climb at the local 50' crag:
- Temps can change quickly up here, so dress accordingly.
- Loose rock is prevalent on pitches 3-4. Therefore, helmets are a must.
This is Grade II for experienced multi-pitch climbers and Grade III for others (which is the original rating).