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Routes in The Castle

5.9 crack climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Betterman T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Camel Walk, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Castle Corner aka Unnamed 5.10 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dalke - Jennings T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dewitt Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dungeon, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Great Chimney Route T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Guillotine T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hardgumbi's Lament T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nose, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rapunzel T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Schmauser - Bohannon Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Southeast Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Throne Room T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncle Wiggly T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wiggins Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Winterlude T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
You Can't Chop This T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 189 total, 2/month
Shared By: Bill Duncan on Jun 11, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is crack #3 in the photo. Climb up the main gully and the dihedral between the Garrison and the James Brown Pillar. Continue up the crack until it splits into 2 cracks and climb up to the left facing dihedral. Sustained for a bit. Climb the face to the left of the dihedral or the crack itself (a bit more difficult) to a small roof. Continue to the ledge.

If anyone has FA information, please let me know.

Location

Quite a few folks I think were referring to this formation on the lower
right side of the Castle as the Garrison, so I'll continue to use that designation.

Protection

Standard Platte rack.

Photos

Frodeman
  5.10
Frodeman  
  5.10
In the SPC: Northern Volume book, this is referred to as Parapet Corner (5.9). It is surprisingly good. The 2nd pitch, the corner proper is solid jams and locks on good sharp granite. If this pitch was easier to get to, I would give it 4 stars, but the approach pitch and the descent easily detract a full star. 3 stars overall.

P1: to get to the actual corner, you must do a short pitch of 5.7 to access the corridor between the lower tower, which the book (and MP) call the Garrison. Instead of aiming straight for the gully from the ground, climb the awkward wide crack left (about 5.4) up about 10 feet to the ledge, then go right (4th class). You'll hit a small chimney off of a large ledge that you can either wiggle into (fun!) or layback. From here, charge up the crumbly gully until you can get both hands into the crack on the right side. Pull over the surprisingly solid chockstones into the corridor and keep moving up until you see the super obvious dihedral on the left. Belay here. Pitch and belay both use finger - hand sized cams.

P2: great! Launch out of the corridor on wide hands, up to a nice stance. Don't go out right, stay left. Jam and lock your way up the increasingly flared crack, sustained pretty much all the way, with a few mediocre stances. You'll eventually come to a full body rest in a weird, rectangular pod below a tree. Pretty much pick your own adventure here, I chose to go left below the tree, sling it, and pull through it. You can also follow the original crack up and through the roof, or climb the face. Belay on the large ledge above. We felt this pitch was harder and more sustained than the first pitch of Throne Room, so probably closer to mid-5.10. This pitch protects well with doubles from about 0.3 - 3. You may want a 4 for the very top if you choose to go left at the tree. Belay takes hand sizes, mostly in the 0.75 - 1 BD range.

Descent: you can either rap the tree on the left to an intermediate tree and rap again, or, if you are as cold as we were and the wind was not appealing, hop over the blocks above the belay and trend left into the Mountaineers Gully. Rap or downclimb, all in the 5.4 range. Oct 15, 2017