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Gym Arete Direct

5.12c, Sport, 75 ft,  Avg: 3.9 from 33 votes
FA: Darryl Roth
Colorado > Canon City > Shelf Rd > Gym

Description

Start 20 feet left of the Gym Arete/The Crack of Dawn start. This line straightens out the Gym Arete's arcing beginning through a powerful and direct line of pockets and a few edges. Essentially, you replace the easiest climbing on the Gym Arete with an extended V5ish boulder problem. Then, you climb all of the 5.12- moves of the Gym Arete. All told, it weighs in around 5.12c. Because this line is a substantially more difficult undertaking, I feel it merits its own description. It is an outstanding route, as anyone can tell by merely standing under it!

Location

Located at the Gym area to the right of The Example and left of The Crack of Dawn.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Snagging the crux pocket on the Gym Arete Direct.
[Hide Photo] Snagging the crux pocket on the Gym Arete Direct.
Keith gives the Gym ArĂȘte Direct the finger. September 2012.
[Hide Photo] Keith gives the Gym ArĂȘte Direct the finger. September 2012.
Moving right to join the original Gym Arete.  There's no "thank God" rest after the opening boulder problem, which keeps the upper arete thrilling to the end.
[Hide Photo] Moving right to join the original Gym Arete. There's no "thank God" rest after the opening boulder problem, which keeps the upper arete thrilling to the end.
The best route at Shelf?  Resting up for the sting in the tail on the Gym Arete Direct.
[Hide Photo] The best route at Shelf? Resting up for the sting in the tail on the Gym Arete Direct.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] This route is action-packed from the moment your feet leave the earth. A powerful opening sequence followed by clip after clip of sustained, intricate face climbing makes this one exciting all the way to the chains. Solid for the grade, quality rock, and oh so clean, this is certainly one of the best routes at Shelf Road. Nov 29, 2010
[Hide Comment] It was my FA. About the grade... .12c seemed right. We were seeing some soft graded routes popping up, and I wanted to be sure with the 12c in spite of people stating that it was easily a letter harder. When I bolted the original Gym Arete (yes I bolted it, but Bob asked if he could have a run on it, thus the FA), my eye was on the direct even then, but I wasn't even sure if there were holds there. A few years later when lowering from the original line, I asked Dave Dangle or Richard Aschert if I could suss the moves. Sure enough it was all there. Dec 1, 2010
Zane Dordai
Salt Lake City
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] If you're climbing the grade, skip the arcing traditional start and just do this one. Continuous difficulty makes perfect beta on the upper crux essential. I'd agree with one of the best routes at Shelf and easily one of the best I've done. Mar 4, 2013
Abel Jones
Bishop, ca
 
[Hide Comment] Stays pretty dry in the rain. Aug 5, 2014
michalm
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Perhaps the best route at Shelf I have tried so far. The moves at the bottom aren't significantly harder than the crux moves in the middle of the route, but they certainly add a lot of pump. Mar 18, 2019