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Peanuts To Serve You

5.9, Trad, 70 ft,  Avg: 3.3 from 63 votes
FA: Greg Olsen & Jon Nelson, 1980
Washington > Central-W Casca… > Skykomish Valley > Index > Lookout Point Area > Lookout Point

Description

A thin, clean flake that starts as a wide, lower-angle layback but thins and steepens into a hand crack.

This is a good route to combine with the routes at Private Idaho and Them for a bunch of 5.9 climbing next to each other.

Location

Located at the left side of the cliff. Look for a gully with a knotted hand line. Go up the gully and trend right to a big fir tree. The climb is in an overlap area with a steep white wall on the right (the Bobcat Cringe). A little to the left is a flared, left-facing chimney below a huge roof.

Rap with 1 rope.

Protection

Standard rack with a couple of 3" pieces and a bigger piece for the start. A #5 C4 works at the beginning or run it out a little and place a #4 higher.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Me on the first ascent, 1980. Photo by Greg Olsen.
[Hide Photo] Me on the first ascent, 1980. Photo by Greg Olsen.
Peanuts to Serve You
[Hide Photo] Peanuts to Serve You
Peanuts
[Hide Photo] Peanuts
Casey leading
[Hide Photo] Casey leading
Peanuts
[Hide Photo] Peanuts
Looking down Peanuts To Serve You.
[Hide Photo] Looking down Peanuts To Serve You.
The upper crack of PTSY.  Note the lichen on the rock prior to cleaning.
[Hide Photo] The upper crack of PTSY. Note the lichen on the rock prior to cleaning.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

sqwirll
Las Vegas
  5.9
[Hide Comment] The route was recently cleaned and the anchor replaced. Jun 10, 2009
[Hide Comment] Excellent route! A C4 #5 was nice to have to protect the start of the layback flake.

Some additional information to help you find it: Hike as if heading to Private Idaho, taking the first well-defined trail to the right after passing the boulder and heading uphill. Where this trail forks and heading right would take you over to the base of Private Idaho, go left and uphill following the trail into a drainage/gully. The trail then cuts back right and traverses along the base of the cliff. Coming from this direction, you will most likely notice the beautiful left leaning crack of Bobcat Cringe first. PTSY is just below and to the left. Scramble up the gully left of the base of the route and traverse right along the ledge to the start of the route.

Alternatively, you can approach from the base of Private Idaho by walking to the far right side of the crag and continuing along the trail to Hag Crag. From the left side of Hag Crag, a trail heads up to Lookout Point, leading you to the base of Steel Pulse. From Steel Pulse, follow the trail left (downhill) along the base of the cliff. Coming from this direction, the clean crack of PTSY should be obvious. All in all only a few minutes hike from the base of Senior Citizens in Space to the base of PTSY. Jun 18, 2009
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
 
[Hide Comment] This is also the first pitch of the 5-pitch route "Solitude", which goes to the top. Sep 29, 2011
Ethan Henderson
Silverdale, WA
 
[Hide Comment] awesome route!

I must say it looks WAY BETTER in real life than in the photos.

I would recommend bringing a 5 C4 and double 3 camalot. Aug 28, 2012
[Hide Comment] Only brought two 3's and nothing bigger, and I definitely regretted it. On the easy side of 5.9, but without a bigger piece you really run out the wide section. If you don't have double 3's you'll have to really run it out to nearly the top... Aug 25, 2013
[Hide Comment] fun route, Used the #5 was glad it, its easy climbing to the 5 but you do get pretty high up i was expecting a 5 right off the deck from the description. I left the 4 on the ground due to the beta and was fine, but you could definately place one 5 ft above the five if you happened to carry one up here anyway (like we did lol) Jun 22, 2016
TaylorLutz
Seattle
 
[Hide Comment] Short route but good. One of the easier 9s at Index I thought, good route if you're breaking into the grade. As for gear as others mentioned, a 5 was nice to have along Jun 23, 2017