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Routes in South Rock

Osteoporosis S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Porifera S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sprinkling Pockets S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: FA: Tim Whilhelmi '91 FFA: Paul Humphrey "96
Page Views: 495 total, 5/month
Shared By: grizz Burton on Jun 9, 2009
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Steep, well featured rock on the right hand side of South Rock. Solid rock.


South Rock


Seven bolts, two bolt anchor


Humphrey had worked a traverse on RBs, doubtful anyone else has tried though. Apparently "2 EZ 4 Tha Neighborhood" was put up with the intention of being the last pitch of the traverse.

"1. UNDERTOE, 5.11? (120 ft.) The first pitch of what may one day be a complete girdle of the South Rock. Begin with the first three bolts of “Swallow the Sea” then head left out to sea. Plug in numerous 1/2” Removable Bolts on the way to the ocean arête. This route is wild! On a high surf day walls of water sweep up the face of the rock across the channel, sometimes appearing higher than the route, only to crash down beside you. Trail a second rope to Tyrolian Traverse back to land or reverse the pitch. FA: Paul Humphrey. FFA: (project)." Apr 21, 2016
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
I always thought a rising traverse, west, right to left, would go here.

As I recall, scoping the start years ago, one start steps over the abyss from a rock below the nice shelf at the bottom of these "Jug Haul" routes.

Even now, it awaits one who would be up for a considerable expense and an extraordinary multi-pitch adventure, but perhaps might involve some bat-hooking between your ss glue-ins to connect those obviously enticing west face features...who knows, there might be a line that goes and encircles the whole formation. Aug 2, 2012
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
After seeing this virgin line, and not wanting take time to drill off hooks to lead this line, we went up right from where these routes start, Rich Ludwig belayed me 20 feet or so up a groove/crack to the little ledge at the top to access these routes. I put an anchor in and we TR'd this "Porifera" route and a harder variation to the right\left? (Osteoporosis?) many terrific times; at first pulling off potato-crisp-like bits of rock as we found which solution pockets worked, then hung on aforementioned hooks to wire brush holds. Working the moves, the swings out were exhilarating.

We called them The Jug Hauls, Left and Right.

Then later, we, and Tim's drill, got busy with the Great White, and never got to bolt the two routes we'd had a blast pioneering. (I wonder what happened to my anchor pins and rap rings? Unmentioned booty, no doubt.)
Tim, that day took a few turns on these routes, but was busy over on The Promontory working the moves of Great White, deciding where he'd bolt with his gun. So, he did NOT get the FA as a TR--that would be all three of us, and I seriously doubt he came back later and aided it for the first lead ascent. Those who put in the bolts and led it first, get credit for the FA (lead), who I thought was Paul Humphrey and Eric Chemello. Jan 22, 2010