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5.7, Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches,
Avg: 2.8 from 79 votes
W Virginia > Seneca Rocks > S Peak - W Face
Another fun Seneca 5.7
Pitch 1: Scramble to and up a low angle dihedral with a nice finger crack for pro. At the top of the dihedral, make some interesting moves to achieve a small ledge with rap anchors.
Pitch 2: Move left into the corner, to another rappel station.
Pitch 3: Follows a corner just right of Old Man's last pitch.
On the face right of Le Gourmet Direct.
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The third, and in my opinion, the best pitch of Neck Press.
Enjoying neck press, a fun, mellow climb. My first Seneca lead.
great views up there
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As of May 2009, there was a perma-Alien at the crux on p1. This route would best be done early to avoid the steady stream of rappels that share the same basic line and anchors.
Jun 9, 2009
Alien is gone but there is a fixed nut half way up the 1st pitch now.
May 24, 2011
The second and third pitches are often skipped but are truly worthwhile! Early in the day is probably better to avoid getting rappelled on.
May 21, 2012
Good route, but as mentioned above it is a common rap route so do it early. I only did the first pitch.
May 21, 2012
In Tony Barnes 2006 book this is rated 7+. The cruxes are more sustained than other Seneca 5.7s. The second pitch could be done with a squeeze chimney variation instead of staying outside the corner. Easily can link pitch 2 & 3 or escape left after pitch 2 to access critter wall.
Oct 20, 2014
San Diego, CA
This is a hard 5.7, even by Seneca standards. First pitch is mostly a tips crack in the corner that leaves you searching for decent feet. The second pitch is mostly easy, but has a distinct crux in the mini-chimney that's probably more tricky than purely difficult. IMHO, the 3rd pitch was the best-- hero climbing up twin cracks that keep kicking back in angle with some great exposure. Pitch 2 and 3 can be linked without adding a ton of rope drag.
Wish I would have grabbed some pictures since it appears none of the ones on this page are actually Neckpress...
Jun 23, 2017
Silver Spring, MD
More like a 5.8, especially if Tomato is supposed to be an 8. Tricky crux with a few strenuous moves but great protection. The 2nd pitch is just awkward and a bit strenuous as well. Best to do early in the day.
Jul 17, 2017
I found the chimney on P2 to be absolutely brutal, but putting the grade at seneca 5.7 feels about right.
May 19, 2018
This is seneca 5.7. Heres betaa
P1 is amazing finger jams just awesome movement prolly the hardest but nice fingerlocks some overhung and eats up nuts.
P2 does have a tough little chimmney which is harder for big people or someone with a ton of gear or pack. I cruised it with a butt and elbow arm jam.
P3 is awesome to do while all the lame o s are walking old mans and le gourmet. Climb up the cracks which are easier than p1 when you get to the chimmney i threw a .5 on above me out to the right and then went out to the right onto the face and pulled up... beautiful exposure. You could link p1 and p2 since p1 eats up nuts but you would need to extend those pieces bc p2 goes a little left.
Also where the corner ends at the top of p2 if you want to add some spice you can climb the flake out to the right which has to be some variation that i dont know of.
Jun 17, 2018
The pics with the people are left of neck press and to the right of gourmet direct. I cant figure out what route that is......
The pic with the 3 cracks is p3 of neck press and its fun.. plug and play all 3 cracks and when you get to the upper part of the chimney 10-feet from the tree at the top i got a .5 up and to the right of the chimmney and stepped right around the corner and onto the face and easily pulled up for some great exposure !!!!
Jun 17, 2018
I led P1. It felt like a slightly easier version of Triple S. I was able to sew it up with lots of aliens (double set). I’m short (5’1”) with small fingers that fit the crack and nothing was too reachy. We switched leads and I followed P2 and went thru the offwidth at the top (my partner led to the left of offwidth). Offwidths are not my favorite so that pitch felt harder to me. 5.7+ (Barnes guidebook rating) seems like correct rating for Seneca. Though a different style of climb it felt similar to West Pole (also 5.7+ per Barnes) in terms of difficulty to me.
Aug 12, 2018
I had to reduce the stars I've given to other seneca climbs to emphasize how fun I thought this line was.
Aug 21, 2018