Didn't Make the Team
Avg: 0 from 2 votes
Routes in Training Camp
|Covey Leader to Raven S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Didn't Make the Team T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Drill Team S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|First Cut, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Rookie of the Year/An All Star S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Semper Fi S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|There is No Try S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Third String/Unnamed, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Wax On, Wax Off S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|What Is Your Major Malfunction, Numbnuts? S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Type:||Trad, 70 ft|
|FA:||Tristan Higbee, Christian Burrell|
|Page Views:||592 total, 6/month|
|Shared By:||Tristan Higbee on Jun 9, 2009|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionThis route starts up a chossy, flaring squeeze, continues with some fun moves around a horn, and finishes with juggy climbing on (relatively) good rock.
LocationOn the left (west) side of the formation in the Training Camp that is called the Penguin. It's the formation that has Covey Leader to Raven and Rookie of the Year/An All Star on it. Scramble up some broken rock just left of the formation to the start of the route. There are two belay bolts far to the right that you can belay from.
ProtectionHere's what I recommend: A #5 Camalot would be perfect for protecting the start (I used a #4 and it was tipped out a little). One #3 Camalot comes after that, followed by one or two .75 (green) Camalots or a green and a purple. I didn't get any gear in after about halfway up the climb but take some micro cams or nuts and you can probably get something in. There are two bolts with chains at the top that are part of another route. It's best to belay your second up. The chains aren't in the ideal place for toproping.
A helmet for the climber and the belayer is definitely recommended, as is being familiar with the area's rock so that you know which holds to pull hard on and on which ones to pull lightly.