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Routes in Training Camp

Covey Leader to Raven S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Didn't Make the Team T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Drill Team S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
First Cut, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rookie of the Year/An All Star S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Semper Fi S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
There is No Try S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Third String/Unnamed, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wax On, Wax Off S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
What Is Your Major Malfunction, Numbnuts? S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Tristan Higbee, Christian Burrell
Page Views: 592 total, 6/month
Shared By: Tristan Higbee on Jun 9, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

This route starts up a chossy, flaring squeeze, continues with some fun moves around a horn, and finishes with juggy climbing on (relatively) good rock.

Location

On the left (west) side of the formation in the Training Camp that is called the Penguin. It's the formation that has Covey Leader to Raven and Rookie of the Year/An All Star on it. Scramble up some broken rock just left of the formation to the start of the route. There are two belay bolts far to the right that you can belay from.

Protection

Here's what I recommend: A #5 Camalot would be perfect for protecting the start (I used a #4 and it was tipped out a little). One #3 Camalot comes after that, followed by one or two .75 (green) Camalots or a green and a purple. I didn't get any gear in after about halfway up the climb but take some micro cams or nuts and you can probably get something in. There are two bolts with chains at the top that are part of another route. It's best to belay your second up. The chains aren't in the ideal place for toproping.

A helmet for the climber and the belayer is definitely recommended, as is being familiar with the area's rock so that you know which holds to pull hard on and on which ones to pull lightly.

Photos

The best part of doing this route was when we realized that DK would have to do it :)!
One fun section exiting the chimney and turning the roof/corner to the upper slab.
There are good pro options here and there so keep your eyes out. Jun 10, 2009
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
I gave this route a bomb because I think that most people should probably avoid it. If you like chossy trad climbing (you know who you are, sickos), then it's worth climbing. The moves are pretty fun and after the first 20 feet or so, the rock is pretty good.

This route is dedicated to Darren <3 Jun 9, 2009