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Routes in South End

A Different School of Thought T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Birds of Prey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blood On The Tracks T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Candy Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Daydream, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Drop Zone T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Ecstasy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ecstasy Junior T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fine Young Cannibals T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
La Bella Vista T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
La Bella Vista: Lotus variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lower Skyline Direct (LSD) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Muscle Beach T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nightwings T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Satisfaction 2 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1 PG13
Shambler, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Simple J Malarky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sixth Sense T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Southern Exposure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Southwest Buttress Variation T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Spinnaker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunshine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Superstition T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
T & T T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tony's Nightmare T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Tony's Nightmare Direct Finish T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Totem T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Welcome to Seneca T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Wild Men Only T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Ye Gods & Little Fishes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 160 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,007 total, 29/month
Shared By: reddirt on Jun 8, 2009 with updates
Admins: Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Description

Want to do Ecstasy but there's a cue behind a slowly caterpillaring party of three? Here's your chance to do a stouter Seneca seven of equal or (arguably) greater quality.

P1: 35 ft. Short and possibly drippy (if rain was recent... P2 & 3 make putting up w/ any drippage worthwhile).
Start about 15 ft (give or take) to the right side of cave entrance. Stop at the beginning of the long, dark, frictiony ramp.

P2: 75 ft. Easy & exposed (if you want it to be).
Option a) climb up the long, dark, frictiony ramp.
Option b) get on the ramp by starting left of it, on the highly featured face... continue up the long, dark, frictiony ramp.

The ramp gets narrow in 2 places. In preparation for P3, it may be better to finish P2 past the second narrow section on the ramp.

P3: 50 ft. Short but stout (crux).
Climb up & right on the steep but featured wall to shuts that serve as the rap station for SJM.

Descent:
option a) one of the coolest free hanging rap ever (150ft) during which one can check out the sporty 12's in the cave.
option b) scramble up & walk north to more climbs.
(Triple S, Marshall's Madness, Crack of Dawn... area known as wall of a Thousand Pitons) or hike the switchbacks down the West Face trail.

There are also several variations to this route. They are as follows (courtesy of MP member Brian Malone):

Ecstasy Connection variation: From the Westernly Extension belay, downclimb until it is possible to move left then up to the belay on the second picth of Ecstasy. This can also be reversed.

Westerly Extension variation: At the end of the normal second pitch it is possible to continue around the corner for another 15 ft. to the true end of the ramp. All variant finishes start from this very far out belay.

Cave Start variation: One can start the route by climbing the right wall of the cave.

Traverse Finish variation: From the end of the Westernly Extension climb up the white cornerto a small ledge whichruns out to the right. Traverse around the corner to easier ground, then up to the tree.

Location

From Roy Gap Rd cross creek & go up stone stair master. Upon reaching wood steps go right past Ecstasy & large cave. Start is approximately 15ft right of cave (or start on right side of cave for 5.8 variation).

Protection

cams small to kinda big...
grey Mastercam thru blue/#3 Camalot

rusty pins scattered thru P2 & P3. Fixed stopper on P3.
First two pitches were fun enough, but I would not recommend the first pitch to a newer leader--though the climbing is easy, the protection is pretty thin. Finishing on the third pitch of Muscle Beach, as mentioned, was very fun...definitely the highlight of the route.

There is also a fixed pink tricam on the traverse after the end of P2 proper over to the base of the alternate belay. Jul 17, 2017
Sam Golden
melbourne, FL
 
Sam Golden   melbourne, FL
 
really cool route, Nicole and I led this and I got P1 and P3 all of them are fun. Definitely worth doing for the exposure for this grade on P3 :) Nov 30, 2014
aribtraryusername
Carson City, NV
aribtraryusername   Carson City, NV
repeat for emphasis -- DON'T RAP unless you have 2 ROPES. it might look like you can reach an intermediate anchor around the lip of the cave/edge of the p2 ramp, but it's a trap! it's too overhanging and you will get stuck twisting in the wind several feet away from the wall. Apr 28, 2014
Jonathan hudson
baltimore, MD
 
Jonathan hudson   baltimore, MD
 
3rd pitch is worth it! Stiff 5.7! varied climbing. DO IT! Jul 12, 2013
Mark Maier
  5.8
Mark Maier  
  5.8
If the first pitch is drippy (it was very wet when we did it), you can climb the Totem buttress instead to the first belay. Because the second pitch traverses a lot, and is very exposed, be very aware of the fall potential for a second or third as gear is placed, or removed. We did the Muscle Beach finish, which is quite good. There are plenty of protection opportunities and you sure have some air below you. Jun 16, 2013
attila
 
attila  
 
It's best to set up the anchor at the end of P2 near a couple of fixed nuts at your feet. You can also see an old, unusable tricam with a shredded pink sling jammed in the crack. May 5, 2013
DennisL
Bishop, CA
 
DennisL   Bishop, CA
 
"Airy and committing" is what Horst has to say about this route, and that about sums it up. Great exposure on the technically easy second pitch. I've no idea about the third, because route finding on this climb is challenging. We built our belay for p3 at two fixed stoppers near the end of the ramp and climbed almost straight up, but I've no idea if we climbed the actual third pitch or something else entirely. Apr 22, 2013
Left a pair of la sportiva miuras near the base of this climb...pretty new, size 40. Please send me a message if you found them, or are going there soon. Oct 28, 2012
Seth Derr
harrisburg, pa
 
Seth Derr   harrisburg, pa
 
I thought this one was pretty great. I haven't done Ecstasy so I can't compare the two, but this has three pitches of varied climbing and great exposure. Climbed it on a rainy day when not much else was dry, and i'd gladly do it again. Aug 27, 2012
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.7
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.7
I definitely would not put this in the category of Ecstasy, but it does have a nice final pitch and if you happen to have TWO ropes it is a very cool rap off the cold-shut anchors. P1 & P2 probably go at 5.3/5.4 at best.

There are two ways to finish. The original route stops where a short corner blocks the ramp. At your feet there's a crack with an old fixed tri-cam (sling torn off) and (as of 02JUN2012) a fixed #9 Stopper. Directly above this are a series of overhangs. You move up and left, then back right, following the weaknesses in the roof system. You can get in a good nut before you leave the belay and then place a good cam in the horizontal at the first roof.

The other variation is as "Frogmen83" described it. You move beyond the short corner about ten feet to the end of the ramp and make the belay. Going straight up from here is the final pitch of Muscle Beach and the roofs go at 5.8.

I guess you could make the belay at the end of the ramp and then move back right and over to do the original final pitch so that you're not climbing directly over your partner. Jun 4, 2012
Frogmen83
  5.7 PG13
Frogmen83  
  5.7 PG13
I've done this route probably 10 times over the past 15 years, usually with a newbie. I think this route deserves 3 stars, it has a bit of everything. Pitch 1 up the face is PG rated with a huge comfortable area to belay on, Pitch 2 is easy, but really exciting and exposed. Make sure you go all the way to the end of the ramp to build your belay and do the best final pitch variation. The last pitch (Muscle Beach) is 5.8 and has 2 crux sections; leaving the anchor and exiting the overhang. You can get a great nut high in the crack before making the final moves to the top. Oct 1, 2010
Shawn Heath
Forchheim, Germany
  5.7
Shawn Heath   Forchheim, Germany  
  5.7
This one has a star in the guide book but I don't think it was deserving of it. It looks like it sees a lot of traffic, judging by the polished rock. It was my first climb at Seneca, and if it were my only climb that day, I probably wouldn't go back. The first two pitches were easy, but the belay stance at the end of pitch two was a little uncomfortable. I tried to follow the directions of this topo and the book, and I think that if you do that, you end up trying to overcome an overhang immediately off the belay. The overhang is probably 5.8 or 5.9 with it's great holds, but it's scary how you've practically got your crotch in your belayer's face, and if you fall, you'll shock-load the anchor and probably hit the ledge before toppling over the drop-off above the cave. So I went left where I found pitons and lots of awkward moves off good holds, traversing hard right while climbing to the top. I ended at some rap anchors which I was really hesitant to use because I was 160 feet up and didn't notice an intermediate rap station. I don't know, maybe the rope will reach. I didn't try...
Anyway, the route-finding on the third pitch was a bit difficult. I kept thinking "this is only 5.7, don't make it harder than that", so I don't know if I wandered too far or not, but it seemed the easiest way to go, and it wasn't that fun.
I didn't use any cams bigger than .5 Camalot, but I did place a few hexes. Sep 14, 2010