Simple J Malarky
Avg: 2.6 from 44 votes
Routes in South End
|A Different School of Thought T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13|
|Birds of Prey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Blood On The Tracks T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Candy Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Daydream, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Drop Zone T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13|
|Ecstasy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Ecstasy Junior T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Fine Young Cannibals T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13|
|La Bella Vista T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|La Bella Vista: Lotus variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Lower Skyline Direct (LSD) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Muscle Beach T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Nightwings T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Satisfaction 2 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1 PG13|
|Shambler, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Simple J Malarky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Sixth Sense T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Southern Exposure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Southwest Buttress Variation T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Spinnaker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Sunshine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Superstition T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R|
|T & T T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Tony's Nightmare T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|Tony's Nightmare Direct Finish T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Totem T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Welcome to Seneca T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13|
|Wild Men Only T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Ye Gods & Little Fishes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Type:||Trad, 160 ft, 3 pitches|
|Page Views:||3,007 total, 29/month|
|Shared By:||reddirt on Jun 8, 2009|
|Admins:||Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath|
DescriptionWant to do Ecstasy but there's a cue behind a slowly caterpillaring party of three? Here's your chance to do a stouter Seneca seven of equal or (arguably) greater quality.
P1: 35 ft. Short and possibly drippy (if rain was recent... P2 & 3 make putting up w/ any drippage worthwhile).
Start about 15 ft (give or take) to the right side of cave entrance. Stop at the beginning of the long, dark, frictiony ramp.
P2: 75 ft. Easy & exposed (if you want it to be).
Option a) climb up the long, dark, frictiony ramp.
Option b) get on the ramp by starting left of it, on the highly featured face... continue up the long, dark, frictiony ramp.
The ramp gets narrow in 2 places. In preparation for P3, it may be better to finish P2 past the second narrow section on the ramp.
P3: 50 ft. Short but stout (crux).
Climb up & right on the steep but featured wall to shuts that serve as the rap station for SJM.
option a) one of the coolest free hanging rap ever (150ft) during which one can check out the sporty 12's in the cave.
option b) scramble up & walk north to more climbs.
(Triple S, Marshall's Madness, Crack of Dawn... area known as wall of a Thousand Pitons) or hike the switchbacks down the West Face trail.
There are also several variations to this route. They are as follows (courtesy of MP member Brian Malone):
Ecstasy Connection variation: From the Westernly Extension belay, downclimb until it is possible to move left then up to the belay on the second picth of Ecstasy. This can also be reversed.
Westerly Extension variation: At the end of the normal second pitch it is possible to continue around the corner for another 15 ft. to the true end of the ramp. All variant finishes start from this very far out belay.
Cave Start variation: One can start the route by climbing the right wall of the cave.
Traverse Finish variation: From the end of the Westernly Extension climb up the white cornerto a small ledge whichruns out to the right. Traverse around the corner to easier ground, then up to the tree.