Type: Trad, 160 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,338 total · 32/month
Shared By: reddirt on Jun 8, 2009 with 3 Suggestions
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You & This Route


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Description

Want to do Ecstasy but there's a queue behind a slowly caterpillaring party of three? Here's your chance to do a stouter Seneca seven of equal or (arguably) greater quality.

P1: 35 ft. Short and possibly drippy (if rain was recent... P2 & 3 make putting up w/ any drippage worthwhile).
Start about 15 ft (give or take) to the right side of cave entrance. Stop at the beginning of the long, dark, frictiony ramp.

P2: 75 ft. Easy & exposed (if you want it to be).
Option a) climb up the long, dark, frictiony ramp.
Option b) get on the ramp by starting left of it, on the highly featured face... continue up the long, dark, frictiony ramp.

The ramp gets narrow in 2 places. In preparation for P3, it may be better to finish P2 past the second narrow section on the ramp.

P3: 50 ft. Short but stout (crux).
Climb up & right on the steep but featured wall to shuts that serve as the rap station for SJM.

Descent:
option a) one of the coolest free hanging rap ever (150ft) during which one can check out the sporty 12's in the cave.
option b) scramble up & walk north to more climbs.
(Triple S, Marshall's Madness, Crack of Dawn... area known as wall of a Thousand Pitons) or hike the switchbacks down the West Face trail.

There are also several variations to this route. They are as follows (courtesy of MP member Brian Malone):

Ecstasy Connection variation: From the Westernly Extension belay, downclimb until it is possible to move left then up to the belay on the second picth of Ecstasy. This can also be reversed.

Westerly Extension variation: At the end of the normal second pitch it is possible to continue around the corner for another 15 ft. to the true end of the ramp. All variant finishes start from this very far out belay.

Cave Start variation: One can start the route by climbing the right wall of the cave.

Traverse Finish variation: From the end of the Westernly Extension climb up the white cornerto a small ledge whichruns out to the right. Traverse around the corner to easier ground, then up to the tree.

Location

From Roy Gap Rd cross creek & go up stone stair master. Upon reaching wood steps go right past Ecstasy & large cave. Start is approximately 15ft right of cave (or start on right side of cave for 5.8 variation).

Protection

cams small to kinda big...
grey Mastercam thru blue/#3 Camalot

rusty pins scattered thru P2 & P3. Fixed stopper on P3.

Photos