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Routes in (06) The Dihedral Wall

Baba Louie S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Classic Jam Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Eggs and Ham S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lucky Boy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Quickdraw McGraw S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smoked Salmon T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Stick Fort S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tina's Rig S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Tina?
Page Views: 289 total, 3/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Jun 8, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Two drilled pockets in the first two low bulges detract from this routes quality. Several other holds have been heavily comfortized, whiched based on how sharp the non-cofortized holds in the slabby section are, is probably a good thing.

A long pull low off of the first drilled pocket which is very tight for two fingers, more like one and a pad, clears the first bulge. Then a serise of compresion moves starting with the second drilled out hold leads past a very difficult 4th clip, which is easier once you are well past it. A slabby section allows one to recover and a final fun bulge on big holds leads to the anchors.

Location

First route right of the most obvious dihedral (Green Eggs and Ham). Starts over 2 low bulges in the first 15 feet.

Protection

7 bolts and chain achors.

Photos

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LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
I belive it is possible to climb this route without the two chipped holds and it would be about 5.13- to 5.13. Jun 8, 2009