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Routes in (3) Snake Wall

Before the Storm T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eight Is Enough T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Opdyke's Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Party At The Moon Tower S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Snake Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snake Roof T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vicious S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad
FA: Kevin Rauch, Bryan Smith, 4-26-05
Page Views: 3,162 total, 31/month
Shared By: Ebb Ebbing on Jun 7, 2009 with updates
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

Very fun ledgy climb with some short steep sections.

Protection

Partially bolted (5 bolts), but some additional gear to 1" required. Use a small nut on the runout section between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Then use gear to protect above the 5th bolt, as you move up and over to the anchors. (1 small nut between 2nd and 3rd bolt. 2-3 small to medium nuts/cams at top).

Location

2nd route, but first bolt line, to the right of the rock tower. Goes up the face just to the left of the 2 roofs. Anchors are a bit off to the right, above the second roof.
Paul L
Portland, OR
  5.9
Paul L   Portland, OR
  5.9
All-in-all a fun route, pretty straightforward until the moves above the last bolt. Fun, exposed climbing moving right to the anchors after getting gear in. I'm new to trad and had a little trouble finding the right gear to protect around the roof. Ended up getting a small nut in, followed by a small cam. Placing was from a bit of an awkward stance, too. Jul 25, 2017
Bill 1552
Portland, OR
Bill 1552   Portland, OR
Not a sport route despite the bolts on the lower half, definitely would want gear for the upper section. I went with a small nut just above the roof and BD 0.5 and mid-sized nut higher up. Jun 4, 2017
Louie
Portland, Or
Louie   Portland, Or
The runout after the last bolt is huge. My partner got nervous at the bottom. I would recommend heading up with gear. Sep 25, 2016
Mitch Jacky
Portland, OR
Mitch Jacky   Portland, OR
I think the route finally swallowed the TCU. RIP, Little Buddy.

Do not try to run this thing out! Despite the 5.9 grade, there is a good 20 or 25 feet from the last bolt to the chains and the climbing is very committing. Bring at least two pieces of gear, potentially a 1 or 1-1/4" cam between bolts 2 and 3 and definitely some sort of pro when climbing over the roof, though I didn't see what it needed.

Sincerely,
Scared and Stupid on Snake Face May 9, 2016
tsherry
Portland, OR
  5.9
tsherry   Portland, OR
  5.9
Climbed it yesterday. Someone got an small TCU stuck in a crack, I clipped that for fun and backed it up. For between 2nd and 3rd bolt I went with a blue metolius, would have probably been fine running it out to the third bolt, but if you're dragging up gear, might as well use it. After the bolts I placed a small nut and a #1 before exiting right. Up there it gets a little bushy, then I remembered to go right and saw the anchors. Not a super special climb, but if you want to use your trad gear, give it a go. Nov 22, 2015
Topher Dabrowski  
  5.9
I take 2 pcs of gear for this route and use them after clipping the bolts. A micro cam such as a BD X4 0.1 or similar will work at the roof, so will a micro nut or if you are good with gear you can sneak a BD 0.5 into the wider bottom section of the roof crack but it needs more finessing. The second cam I use after the roof exit and that's a BD 1.0 in a solid crack placement. Apr 14, 2015
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
  5.9+
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
  5.9+
I climbed this for the first (and probably last) time last week. Nothing special. Runout in the middle protects ok with a thin nut. I wouldn't trust it with a big fall, however the next bolt is only about 5-6' above. Getting into the dihedral can be tricky, without small cams it's tricky to protect. Once in the dihedral, transfer to the right side, and larger crack, and follow that to the anchor. Jan 23, 2015
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.9+
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.9+
I usually run it out through the second and third bolts. The climbing through this section is pretty straightforward and easy. The mantel move to get up and around the roof makes even pretty strong climbers think for a second. From here, you can try to continue up the crack (easier), but you'll have to scramble around a bush. I usually move my body into the crack and then make a really exposed, airy step to the right onto the face. You might be able to move onto the face sooner, but I've never tried it. Nov 13, 2010