PRINT: Rock Climb Santaqueen Prom Queen, Wasatch Range

Santaqueen Prom Queen

5.10a, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),

Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: James Garrett, 9 October 1995
Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > Santaquin Canyon > Santaqueen Wall

Access Issue: Mt. Nebo Wilderness on south side of Santaquin Canyon. Details

The Mount Nebo Wilderness boundary parallels approximately 100-200 yards south of the Santaquin Canyon road from the mouth of the canyon to Tinney Flat Campground. Wilderness rules blm.gov/wo/st/en/info/regul… apply within the wilderness area (nothing mechanized or motorized allowed, including power drills).

Description

This fun climb does seem to be getting quite a bit of traffic for the area.

Another route called BRING A FRIEND is 1 meter to the right of SPQ and it shares the anchor. It doesn't seem as positive and may be a bit harder. Named after my favorite Drive Inn burger joint in Santaquin. And also the day I went back to replace the anchors on COMING FULL CIRCLE, one of the highschoolers waiting for her TR on the route was really the Santaquin Prom Queen!

Pitch #1: Climb interesting pocket/disjointed crack features up the sustained limestone face. Homogeneous for its grade. 5.10a, 30m.

Location

Also park 0.1 mile past the one lane bridge and walk a few seconds to the route. This is on the same popular wall on the left side of the road as COMING FULL CIRCLE, but on the far right side of the wall about 100m further up canyon.

Protection

QDs for 12 bolts to a Metolius Rap Hanger and a vertically placed chain.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Santaqueen Wall<br>
2. <em>project</em><br>
3. [[106453503]] 5.10a<br>
4. [[106458080]] 5.10

Santaqueen Wall 2. project 3. Santaqueen Prom Queen 5.10a 4. Bring a Friend 5.10

Mark Mason starting the crux of Santaqueen Prom Queen

SPQ to the belay under the middle of the roof. Note the bolts for the BRING A FRIEND route 1m to the right.