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Routes in Bob's Rocking Chair

Allergic Reaction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Blind Man's Glasses T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hippies Anonymous T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jointed Venture T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Neanderthal or Not at All T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squash Rocker T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: Scott Unice, Mike Grossman, Kristen Carrol - 1990
Page Views: 105 total, 1/month
Shared By: Boissal on Jun 5, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Start a few feet left of the stacked blocks of Jointed Venture and make your way up underneath the large roof by either climbing the dihedral (mellow, probably not the original route) or tackling the face straight up (hard but only way to clip the first bolt).
Plug a piece underneath the roof and make an awkward rockover move to the right to get out from under the roof. Clip the 2nd bolt and make your way up the upper slab, pinching crystals and feeling a bit runout.

Location

Located in between Hippies Anonymous and Jointed Venture.
Better to walk off to the east although you could sling trees at the top and lower.

Protection

2 bolts + a hand size cam for the roof.
Micros and small nuts useful to protect the dihedral. Long runners to avoid heinous rope drag.

Photos

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triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10+
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10+
I though this was a solid committing climb. Small gear to protect the beginning, a #2.5-#3 definitely protects the moves over the roof. Then some bolts above protect the thin slab. Full value route! Jul 17, 2009