[Hide Comment] Ah, I get it. This shares the 1st pitch anchors with "Spikes Crack" after exiting the tunnel. Cool. Jul 1, 2010

[Hide Comment] Yes-sir...Nick, if you feel that the beta I give on any of these routes I've added are vague or mis-leading...IM me...Freddy and I put chain, shackle, and screw link equalized on the top of the second pitch of this climb on our second outing this last spring. Upon climbing it on the first outing...we found the that the sling that used to be up there was cut and left there...this really sucked to rap off of one bolt, so we added chain...wanted to leave biners up there but decided not to as they might walk away...probably gonna rig the the anchors at pitch one with the same setup as long as the top stays the same way we left it on our second outing. I dunno why someone would cut that sling. I think the second pitch is quite fun...squeeze chimney to 5.6/7 that kinda makes you think before commiting the next move...

Probably gonna do the same to "Air" as well will beefier 3/8 HD transport chain since its such a trade route. Just wanna keep things as safe as they can be. Jul 16, 2010

[Hide Comment] Slings are bad to leave as perm anchors, can look intact but bust with a tug after a months of sun exposure. Someone probably thought the slings were unwise and cut it. I am planning on putting some chains on the first anchors next time I'm up, the red slings there looked bad.

The tunnel is so cool, I was awestruck when I realized it went all the way through. Jul 17, 2010

[Hide Comment] We are not the ones who originally equiped these routes with anchors...I agree that leaving webbing is not a good system and the only time I have done this is in the Needles. The old system on top had the lower hanger with a screw link and the upper had tubular webbing with a screw link equalized with the lower...Even if its old and crappy, felt better having both to rap instead of one even in the condition that it was but thats just me. It seems remiss to cut it and take the screwlink and just leave the webbing on top but maybe thats just my hangup...We simply added chain to the top to mitigate safety issues...cool routes nonetheless! Jul 17, 2010

[Hide Comment] Just climbed this route yesterday, really cool tunnel. Watch for loose rock when entering the tunnel I noticed a few pieces that were sketchy. Fun route! May 7, 2011

[Hide Comment] OK, I'll equip it when I come home on leave in Nov...and it will be shackles and chain... Oct 10, 2013

[Hide Comment] I'm kind of new to trad climbing. What exactly is considered "larger" when it comes to cams. Since large seems kind of relative. Apr 20, 2018

[Hide Comment] Adam, there are much better adventures than this for the new trad climber. This is kind of a chosspile. Apr 20, 2018

[Hide Comment] It's a fun route, but I agree some of the rock is rotten in spots. If you are new to trad and don't feel comfortable deciphering questionable rock quality, I'd look elsewhere for your first leads. It's a cool little adventure though.

The cave is fun, and all who followed enjoyed that part the most.

Thanks Corey & Aaron Jun 2, 2018

[Hide Comment] Since Air is often occupied I usually lead straight up the crack directly below the cave (between Line over Lucy and Air). Takes big cams or smaller gear in rock of variable quality, mostly worsening as you go. It's about 5.4. I've just been referring to this as "Phallus Direct" - does it have a real name? Jun 10, 2019