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Routes in North Side

Bombelay T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Brain Dead T A4
Captain Kangaroo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cornflake Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Creatures of Waste T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3
Deliverance aka : Squeal Like a Pig T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Extra Crimpy Chicken T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fear of Flying T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Glass Eye T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Glass I ( Pitch 1 ), The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Glass Menagerie, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Guillotine, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
House of Cards Var. A3-
Invisible Airwaves T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2
Invisible Airwaves Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kahntian Ethics T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Killer Whales T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nuclear Erection T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Off the Wall T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pooter the Poacher T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Practice Aid Route T,TR A2
Reign of Fire T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
Remember Appomattox (aka Rowins's Route) 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2+
Ride the Lightning T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Safari Arete (extension) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Safari Jive T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Safari Jive Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Safari Jive Double Direct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Scott Fischer Memorial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
Seal, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shrimp Cocktail T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Southern Hospitality Var. T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A3 R
Sperm, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Waste Not, Want Not T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Waverly Waster T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Whitney's Excellent Route T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Womb, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Aid, 240 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Whitney Heuerman, Jeff Burton (1984)
Page Views: 14,176 total, 137/month
Shared By: Fox Mountain Guides on Jun 4, 2009
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Great free climbing followed by some classic nailing. The free crux is the thin traverse under the detached block. Careful with your pro here!

Start up the shallow blocky dihedral to the left of "Waste Not Want Not." There is a 5.12a direct start that goes up the obvious dehidral. Traverse right on thin horizontal (crux) to good ledge. Rest, then blast the lay back to a great ledge. Start nailing from here.

Location

North Face of Looking Glass Rock; starts left of Waste Not Want Not.

Protection

Single set of cams, extra .5- #1. Nuts. Twin ropes useful. Beaks and Bugaboos for the nailing. A two bolt anchor is fixed at all belays.
Barrett Pauer
Brevard, NC
 
Barrett Pauer   Brevard, NC
 
This route doesn't go clean without fixed gear. Get yourself some beaks and small heads! Feb 16, 2017
As of 2/10/17 there is no fixed gear on P2. I don't think it'll go clean without the fixed gear. Feb 11, 2017
My friend led the second pitch hammer-less a couple weeks ago while getting back on the horse of aid climbing. I cleaned the pitch and removed a "fixed" knife blade right under the bolt mid-pitch. There was also what looked like a pasted #4 copper head just under the pin, however, I had nothing on me to clean this with. Multiple (maybe 4?) heads from bolt to anchor. C3? Lets try not to destroy our routes! Jul 29, 2016
Jcastleberry  
 
4 heads and a fixed pin on P2. Easily goes without hammering. Jul 5, 2016
Ben Greene
Asheville, North Carolina
Ben Greene   Asheville, North Carolina
Climbed the 2nd pitch last weekend, and blew a nut right before the 1st bolt- took a nice 40-50 ft ride and popped a piton and a rurp- ! .. There are two fixed copperheads above the bolt!

I will deff be back for the 3rd and I agree mike, what is the real rating! Seems hard. May 23, 2015
Mike Reardon  
 
Got most of the way up P2 and found nothing fixed below the bolt. Things get thin just below that first bolt- reading the descriptions, it looks like tomahawks are the key!
Also, what is the consensus on the aid rating of this climb? TK guide suggests A4 and the Shull Lambert states A2. May 20, 2015
michael s...
Denver, CO
michael s...   Denver, CO
Once you get above the bolt on the second pitch everything is pretty bleak. I'm not gonna say it would be impossible to freeclimb, but pretty damn rough. Like 5.14 or something. (Not that I have the greatest idea what a 5.14 crack climb is like) Oct 23, 2014
I was just wondering what people thought about the possibility of P2 being "free climbed"? Is it possible? Are there holds? I used to climb at LG quite a bit and always thought this pitch would be really cool. I've never been above P1, don't really aid climb, and don't live close, just curious. Sep 15, 2014
michael s...
Denver, CO
michael s...   Denver, CO
I was on this twice in Feb and I don't think its gonna go clean without the fixed gear. As far as the gear ripping, I made it to the bolt and reached up for a "fixed" bashie and it fell into my hand with no resistance. May 20, 2014
As of 3/3/14, I would be very doubtful that P2 goes clean any more. We headed up without a hammer but I'm sad to report that all of the fixed heads (only 2 remained) are now ripped. The final section between the bolts will likely require either bashies or knifeblades since the fixed gear is now gone. Everything else went on cam hooks and hand placed beaks, though. Mar 5, 2014
Blake Cash
Chattanooga, TN
 
Blake Cash   Chattanooga, TN
 
Funny...the "traverse" is not hard at all, although committing, not hard. It's the moves off of the ledge right after that are the hardest and mildly awkward. Oct 16, 2013
The first pitch is a punch in the face every time I try to warm up on it. But, I just cant get enough, its a must do. Aug 27, 2012
Scott O
Anchorage
Scott O   Anchorage
All but one of the fixed heads on P2 are gone. I ended up placing 3 peckers high up. Definitely no reason to hammer until the move before the first bolt, and I'm sure a better aid climber could have seen something I didn't. Aug 13, 2012
csproul
Davis, CA
csproul   Davis, CA
"Crux" traverse is hardest move but is over very quickly. The initial power lieback up the crack above is kind of cruxy too. I cleaned P2 and can't imagine how it would go completely clean unless there was some fixed heads just below the bolt(which there were not). It is a very thin seam before the bolt that wouldn't take cam hooks. He ended up leapfrogging the two tomahawks that we had. to get to the bolt and the one fixed head above the bolt. I'd love to see how folks get through this section without hammering. I led P3 which was entirely foxed gear with 2-3 hook moves. No need to belay off of the top of p2. Belay in comfort down on the nice ledge for both P2 and P3. Awesome route and the best belay ledge in NC! Aug 13, 2012
Chase Petursburg
Littleton, CO
Chase Petursburg   Littleton, CO
I don't usially aid climb, but I made an exception for this. The one issue was that a few holds in the crux were gone, but it was fun. Pitch 3 isn't that fun, though. Dec 10, 2011
Ryan Williams
London (sort of)
  5.10+ A2
Ryan Williams   London (sort of)  
  5.10+ A2
I'm not sure what to say about the big flake. I can't imagine that a small cam would pry it off, but it is kind of scary. It was only a tad bit harder than a few awkward sections midway up the crack but I probably wasn't using my feet very well. P2 looks cool as hell, and I'd love to aid it someday. Oct 27, 2011
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
 
Superb first pitch! The initial traverse under the large flake is somewhat weird but just muscle through it and its over in jiffy. The first move on the vertical crack (protected by fixed cams) is a bit slick on the feet so don't forget about 'em or they may just go, but the rest is smooth sailing till you reach the most beautiful belay ledge of all time!!

Second Pitch is Radical in every sense! First Aid climb ever so I had a blast! Did it with nothing but small cams, small black diamond nuts, two cam hooks and a little creativity. We may have made it a wee bit harder on ourselves because of our lack of gear but it sent either way! It is pretty easy going till you get about ten feet below the bolt on the face and thats where things get "intellectual demanding", but then after the bolt its a go. Took us 2.5 hours to send the second pitch, as I said it was our first aid!

No Time for the third, but We are definitely going back to finish this classic! I heard the rope swing is a must do! Oct 18, 2011
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
The block at the P1 crux is not attached to the wall. Remember that if you decide to place gear in the horizontal seam. You could pry that thing off onto your belayer. May 31, 2010
I decided to aid the corner on my clean gear before I started nailing, and got to the anchors without having to pull up the hammer. This was in about 1994. Some fixed heads were involved near the top, but otherwise I was able to get up it with my less-than-state-of-the-art rack of that era. So folks with consideration for the resource might hold off on the bashing before following the exhortation to start nailing right off the ledge. It's still the only place I've ever got to stand on a 0 RP...how cool is that? Jun 4, 2009