Type: Sport, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Rex Wolters (and others?)
Page Views: 10,027 total · 72/month
Shared By: Lee Frazer on Jun 2, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

I first learned of this route after seeing this article climbing.com/exclusive/feat…;>>>> by Durango climber, Jared Ogden. Though he listed it as a Grade III, experienced multi pitch climbers will find it closer to Grade II. Beware of loose rock, and some infamous San Juan choss, in spots. [Warning: Unless you have experience on multi-pitch climbs, do not attempt this. Friends and I've seen several parties, with little more than a few years - or less - of single-pitch sport climbing experience, attempt this (and nearly kill themselves or others). There are much shorter multi-pitch sport climbs, out there, than this. This is alpine terrain, not an outdoor climbing gym!]

Pitch 1. 9 bolts with a 2 bolt anchor and chains (atop the first big ledge). It's a short pitch, but with a fair bit of rope drag, as the pitch wanders a bit near the top.

Pitch 2. 7 bolts with a 2 bolt anchor and chains (short pitch). With a 70 m rope, it's possible to link pitch 2 and 3 with a 70m rope (if you are short on time or feeling up for it). To do this, however, I suggest moving your belay (at the top of pitch 1) about 20-20' left of the fixed anchor (which is easy to do, as this is a big ledge).

Pitch 3. 6 bolts with a 2 bolt anchor and chains. This too is a short pitch.

Pitch 4. This pitch moves up and left. 8 bolts with a 2 bolt anchor and no chains.

Pitch 5. This pitch starts up the exposed ridge (which is good fun), and then angles right with the ridge line. 7 bolts with a 2 bolt anchor and chains.

For more on the route, see Gary N's description in the comments below (from whom I drew to edit this).

Location

It is a 30 minute hike from Eureka, the second 15 minutes of which includes an uphill hike through scree.

Protection

This is well bolted - all the way up.

Descent:

Rappel the route with two 60m ropes, which will require 3 rappels to get you to the base. The second rappel begins at an independent anchor (below and climber's right of the fourth pitch anchor). Use the belay anchors for the remaining raps.

In addition, the second rappel, which ends on the big ledge at the top of the first pitch, will require you to down climb the last 3-4' (of very easy 5th class) to the ledge. Given this, two 70m ropes is more ideal.

A single 60 is not enough.

Photos