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Routes in The Main Area

A Bolt Too Far S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Alice's Ballroom S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bear S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bear Crossing S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Choo choo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Contentment T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dukes of Hazard aka Three Gems T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flying Jib, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Golden Slippers S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
How Green Was My Valley S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lichen Runs Through It S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Life of Brian T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lost Boys S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Menethesis S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moonriver S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Reach for the Sky S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Seasonal View S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Short Fuse T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Spinach Arete, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Thin Line T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Torch S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trepidation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Jason Seaver & Paul Rowe May 28, 1999
Page Views: 969 total · 9/month
Shared By: jason seaver on Jun 2, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Angle up the dirty slab from the right to reach the base of the obvious flake. Clip a bolt, then pull up into the flake and follow it to two more bolts which protect the final, crux face moves.

This thing was thoroughly cleaned ten years ago; dunno what it looks like now.

Location

The Attitash Crag has a few distinct and somewhat separate sections:

- Lowest on the hillside, and to the left as you face the cliff, is the low-angle slab where Seasonal View, Three Gems and several other good pitches are found. This slab is bordered on its right (uphill) end by a bulging buttress with a steep, bolted arete (The Spinach Arete).

- Around to the right from here you pass a broken section of cliff before you arrive beneath a short, low-angle slab leading to a vertical wall with a right facing flake running up its center. This is The Flying Jib.

- 50' right of the Jib is a steep buttress jutting out from the main wall; The Torch Buttress. The front face of this formation holds two short pitches: one is still an open project, as far as I know, and the other a bolted corner/arete/roof pitch, Torch.

- 25' right of Torch, on the overhanging wall extending back right from the front face of the Torch Buttress, is the crack line of Short Fuse.

Protection

Three bolts, stoppers, and some medium cams will get you to a two-bolt LO anchor.

Photos

John Gassel
Boston, MA
  5.10b
John Gassel   Boston, MA
  5.10b
Fun route. Takes good pro.

A small single rack of cams gives you lots of options for gear the whole way up the crack. No need for doubles of anything.

Get on this! The bottom slab needs some more traffic, it's a bit dirty. Jul 25, 2016