Type: Sport, TR, 30 ft (9 m)
FA: Chris Summit and Jeff Follet 1993
Page Views: 2,783 total · 15/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Jun 1, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

The Chief is more fun, steeper, better protected, and more straight-forward than its neighbor War Party (5.11b). Unfortunately, it isn't any longer.

Hop up on a block, then pull through 3 bolts on an impressively overhanging face using many pockets. This is a gym-climber's .10c, as it is pretty pumpy for how short it is.

Location Suggest change

Upon arrive at the Far Side from the Bubble, head right and follow a loose trail about 100' uphill, around to the back of the spires. Once you reach flat ground, War Party and The Chief will be visible on the left.

Protection Suggest change

3 bolts, then a small runout on easier climbing to the top.

You can set up a top rope with a long sling by soloing the backside of the spire. Go into the chimney on the right side climb onto the slab and solo up exposed 5.4.

There are 3 bolts atop the spire, two of which are in good shape, but the only rappel rings are attached to the bolts by old webbing.