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5.8 Corner

5.8, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 4 votes
FA: FA unknown. FRA Mike Baker, Shar Baker, Wilson Goodrich, May 1999
Utah > S Central Utah > Grand Staircase > Long Canyon
Warning Access Issue: Springtime Peregrine closures (it lasts until the end summer) DetailsDrop down

Description

A fun left-facing corner on the west side of The Gulch. Jam and lieback to glory.
Gets direct AM sun. This part of the canyon is not in the raptor closure area.
This route is described in Bjornstad's 'Desert Rock IV' (2003:410-411).

Location

This crack is in The Gulch proper, not in Long Canyon (which is actually a tributary to The Gulch). When driving the Burr Trail from Boulder, at ~10.1 miles you will be dropping into the canyon, and you come to a BLM trailhead for The Gulch.
Don't use this trailhead, but keep driving ca. 1/2 mile east up the bottom of the canyon to the little concrete bridge/culvert where the stream of The Gulch crosses the Burr Trail.
Park here and walk north up the east side of the stream. Pass the log fence across the canyon bottom, and another 2-3 minutes easy walking will bring you to the climb, which is across the stream to the west.

Protection

Standard/light trad rack of single nuts & cams to ~ #3 C4.
Two drilled pins provide the rap anchor, with slings and a pair of opposed crabs.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

5.8 Corner as seen from the approach.  It is the obvious slightly left trending crack.
[Hide Photo] 5.8 Corner as seen from the approach. It is the obvious slightly left trending crack.
5.8 Corner, The Gulch (Burr Trail), UT
[Hide Photo] 5.8 Corner, The Gulch (Burr Trail), UT

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

RuudVN
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Fun route - great for getting into desert climbing! Sep 20, 2016
Madison Stebbins
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] Great pitch. Left piton was ever so slightly wiggly. A newer lead might like to bring an extra #3 and maybe #2. May 31, 2019