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Routes in The Coliseum

Apollo Reed S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
BC S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Journeyman S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Mercy Seat, The S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Metz Hill Parking S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Obitchuary S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pod S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Reckless Abandon S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Still Life S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Super Pod S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Surfer Rosa S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tobacco Road S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Dan Hague 1998
Page Views: 930 total, 9/month
Shared By: Andrew Freeman on May 31, 2009 with updates
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

To start Obitchuary, head up an easy boulder to the right of the first clip to gain a poop covered ledge. Lean down to clip a bolt below on the blank-ish face. Rock up using a chalky sidepull to clip a second bolt from the same ledge (provided the draw is already hung). Power your way up and left using good horizontal jugs, and either campus, or use some average heelhooks. Trend right and consider unclipping the third bolt to mitigate rope drag (it gets annoying up top). Mantel a chossy ledge to the right, and climb up on large jugs for 20 feet, making use of the right wall when necessary. After clipping a bolt from a large flat hold, either move up the dihedral to large finger jugs and then traverse left, or make a long reach to crimps to the left of dihedral. Crank over the roof for the crux and climb 5.8 jugs to the top. Chossier than the other routes on this wall

Location

On the very left side of the Colloseum there are three routes, the leftmost being Reckless Abandon. 10 feet to the right, Surfer Rosa and Obitchuary share a start, with the latter heading right into a slight dihedral formed with the Tobacco Road wall.

Protection

Bolts to leaver biners up top. A bit challenging to clean

Photos

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Christopher Hill
Charlottesville, VA
  5.12a
Christopher Hill   Charlottesville, VA
  5.12a
Not a bad route, just feels a little contrived since it's so close to a slabby corner (about 7ft from the bolt line). Pullin' the roof is good fun though...only really worth doing if you spend a lot of time at the Coliseum. Aug 20, 2009