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BT Express

5.11b/c, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3.8 from 10 votes
FA: Shannon Stegg, Larry Myers - 1980
Georgia > Tallulah Gorge > Main Wall
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Permit Needed-Seasonal Raptor Closure DetailsDrop down

Description

Amazing route with really thin and funky stemming. Crank a V1 start over a not so great landing to the first gear pretty high up, then climb the thin crack/corner to the P1 ledge of Primitive Paradox.

Location

15 feet left of Primitive Paradox.

Protection

The corner takes good small nuts but doesn't accept good small cams until near its end.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Tough, sustained stemming gets you through this one.
[Hide Photo] Tough, sustained stemming gets you through this one.
Route in late Summer - Red is the way Stegg says he originally climbed the route.  Yellow is how it is often done.
[Hide Photo] Route in late Summer - Red is the way Stegg says he originally climbed the route. Yellow is how it is often done.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Stephen Felker
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] aka Bong Toke Express May 2, 2010
Tom Caldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
[Hide Comment] Thought the crux was in the corner up high. It takes ballnutz really well also, before the finger sized pieces. The climb can also be TR'ed easily after climbing Primitive Paradox. Not a bad idea considering the R start. Mar 14, 2013
[Hide Comment] My first 5.11 lead 30 plus years ago now. I still remember feeling like I was bad ass after sending that rig. No ball nuts or TCUs back then, but we did have RPs and those tiny Chouninard wired stoppers, classic line. Mar 16, 2013