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BT Express
5.11b/c,
Trad, 90 ft (27 m),
Avg: 3.8 from 10
votes
FA: Shannon Stegg, Larry Myers - 1980
Georgia
> Tallulah Gorge
> Main Wall
Access Issue: Climbing Permit Needed-Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
Typically Mid-February Tallulah Gorge will temporarily close the wall to rock climbing to protect nesting Peregrine Falcons. Climbing is expected to resume this June once the chicks fledge.
For details visit:
gastateparks.org/TallulahGorge Climbers must stop at the park's visitor center to obtain a climbing permit.
Climbing access is not allowed during whitewater releases and aesthetic water releases.
For water release schedule and further information please check the park's website,
gastateparks.org/TallulahGorge.
Description
Amazing route with really thin and funky stemming. Crank a V1 start over a not so great landing to the first gear pretty high up, then climb the thin crack/corner to the P1 ledge of Primitive Paradox.
Location
15 feet left of Primitive Paradox.
Protection
The corner takes good small nuts but doesn't accept good small cams until near its end.
[Hide Photo] Tough, sustained stemming gets you through this one.
[Hide Photo] Route in late Summer - Red is the way Stegg says he originally climbed the route. Yellow is how it is often done.
Boulder, CO
Clemson, S.C.