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Routes in Happy Wheel Wall

Bones Brigade S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cloud Calling S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dogtown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dreaming the Rasta Bus S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Happy Wheel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hunger Force S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Passion Party S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pet Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Twice Baked S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Where Are They Gonna Run When Destruction Comes S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
White Lotus S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Wildflower Royale S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Yellow Cake S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Z-Boys S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,647 total, 16/month
Shared By: richard magill on May 28, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder

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33 Opinions

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This is a fun and well-protected route up an arete. Tricky footwork is most of the issue here...

Eases up about 2/3 the way up. Nice Line!


Left of the obvious Happy Wheel crack there are a couple of difficult face routes. On the left edge of this wall is the fairly obvious arete climb.


7 bolts to anchors
Wesley Gooch
Jackson, Wyoming
Wesley Gooch   Jackson, Wyoming
The only thing that's better then this climb, is sex... but it's a close second. Nov 12, 2017
Haven't climbed it yet, but after reading these posts, I know that it's five stars. Nov 12, 2017
absurdly tasty Oct 20, 2017
I wasn't able to do this route the first time I tried it, but thanks to the topo I was able to redpoint and have since gone back for many good times! Feb 14, 2017
TS Burton
Ogden, Utah
TS Burton   Ogden, Utah
A case of the Emperor's new clothes. Jan 5, 2017
Stay focused and be solid on 5.10+. Not a day goes by where I walk by this route and don't climb it. It will never get old. Dec 7, 2016
Sim Caskey
Laramie, WY
Sim Caskey   Laramie, WY
I don't usually post on Mountain Project, but when I do, it's because of an extraordinary experience.

Pet Arete not only met expectations, it redefined what a climbing experience can be. Mentally, physically and emotionally challenging, be prepared to reinvent yourself on this gem. Dec 2, 2016
Lander, WY
peicker   Lander, WY
Holy sh!t if you haven't climbed Pet Arete you haven't lived. For real. I mean, I'm not really one to spray about climbs, but this thing is pure bliss from start to finish. It might have the best pockets in Sinks. Get on it ASAP. Nov 26, 2016
FUCKING SIiiiiiNKS...! Nov 25, 2016
Tried this route a few years ago and didn't think it was anything special. I went back this weekend and LOVED it. Such a cool vantage point of the canyon and a beautiful arete. A hidden gem if you ask me. Jun 9, 2016
"Astro Pet ArĂȘte"! Definitely part of the canon. Had to check out what the hype was about, and it lives up to the four star reputation. A must do, if you're traveling through. Mar 2, 2016
Jordan Jack
Lander, WY
Jordan Jack   Lander, WY
This is the only route I climbed last weekend. Pure Bliss!!! Still working on that send. But I will die happy once I do, knowing I've climbed the best Lander has to offer. Feb 29, 2016
Shayna Jones  
THE reason to head to Lander from CO - Do this climb! Feb 29, 2016
Charlie Manganiello
Lander, WY
Charlie Manganiello   Lander, WY
This route is the reason I climb. Every time I'm on it I feel like I'm dancing with the rock and I never want to let go. Feb 20, 2016
eddie m
eddie m  
Best route of the grade IMO. Huge props to the FA for piecing this thing together. This would be classic at any cliff Feb 16, 2016
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
This is the "Achin' for Booty" of 5.10's. Add a few more pitches and I"d put it up there with Lord of the Thais. If you come to Wyoming, you must do this climb. Feb 10, 2016
Tom Rangitsch
Lander, WY
Tom Rangitsch   Lander, WY
Best route of the grade at Sinks? Or maybe in central Wyoming? Sublime movement and position. Would give it five stars if possible. Feb 7, 2016
Ben Venter
Lander, WY
Ben Venter   Lander, WY
In contrast to other quality routes in the area like Pigs in Zen or Caught Stealing, the movement on this route is simply elegant. Feb 7, 2016
matt j hartman
Leavenworth WA
matt j hartman   Leavenworth WA
This climb would be, in my opinion, the Elmo's Fish of the Happy Wheel Walll. Oct 27, 2015
This climb has it all! Exposure? Check! Commitment? Check! Incredible stone and fantastic movement? Check! Send It!! Oct 26, 2015
Brian Fabel
Brian Fabel  
not as many pockets as elmo's fish, but the only better position is endeavor to persevere

FA Kristen Kremer, 2000

Mar 13, 2013
matt j hartman
Leavenworth WA
matt j hartman   Leavenworth WA
best route in the canyon. it should be renamed "superpet of the canyon". Mar 13, 2013