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Flint Lock

V4, Boulder, 8 ft (2 m),  Avg: 3 from 127 votes
FA: Jim Hausmann/Luke Childers
Colorado > Morrison/Evergr… > Alderfer/Three… > Pirate's Cove
Warning Access Issue: West side of park complete closure information DetailsDrop down

Description

This is the leftmost line at Pirates Cove.

Start on good low crimp rail and move up right to an ok right handed slop/crimp. Next pull onto the painful left handed, teeth-like, sidepull crimp. As fast as you can, bust up and right to the finishing jug on "2nd Mate", and top out.

Location

It is located in The Pirates Cove just behind (North) of Gilligan's Island.

Protection

Pads and spot.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Watching the opening moves of Flint Lock. Three Sisters. 5/22/2011.
[Hide Photo] Watching the opening moves of Flint Lock. Three Sisters. 5/22/2011.
Start of Flint Lock.
[Hide Photo] Start of Flint Lock.
The righthand jug is pretty fragile.
[Hide Photo] The righthand jug is pretty fragile.
Jordan locking off on Flint Lock.
[Hide Photo] Jordan locking off on Flint Lock.
Flint Lock, no harder than V5.
[Hide Photo] Flint Lock, no harder than V5.
The left most line is "Flint Lock."
[Hide Photo] The left most line is "Flint Lock."

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

dan michels
boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] V5. Aug 1, 2009
[Hide Comment] Might be the best climb on the wall. Classic. Also I think you can start on this one and traverse right into the next line over for an interesting variation. May 19, 2010
Captain Derp
  V3+
[Hide Comment] In my opinion, this problem compares to the standard V3 (+) on the Redwall at Flagstaff. First two moves are SWEET. Aug 8, 2010
Eckhard Koehler
Denver, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Isn't most of Flagstaff considered SANDBAGGED? Sep 9, 2010
Captain Derp
  V3+
[Hide Comment] Haha definitely, I'm pretty sure the "+" was added to the grade by people who felt the same way. Sep 10, 2010
[Hide Comment] Does this start on crimps or a jug? I think the description may be a little off. I started on a nice incut jug, made one short move to a lh jug, then a big lockoff to a RH edge before falling into the sidepull (which isn't as bad as the description suggests) and reaching to the finish jug for 2nd mate.... The line I did couldn't have been harder than a soft V4. Jun 4, 2011
Daniel H----
  V4-
[Hide Comment] ^^

I did the climb the exact same way as George, seemed the most natural. Had no beta, just saw the wall, was my first time in the area.

Agree on the rating, definitely not harder than V4. Nov 21, 2012
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
[Hide Comment] Yep V4 for sure! Nice little wall here! Sep 9, 2013
[Hide Comment] Def. not V6, soft V4. Still prob. the most fun line on the wall. Feb 25, 2014
Travis Thomason
Denver, CO
 
Jake L
Denver
[Hide Comment] Front view beta: youtube.com/watch?v=K64vLMH…. Jan 24, 2021
[Hide Comment] We tried a few betas yesterday - the two of us with good full crimp confidence had no problem using the incut right hand to lock off and get to the "toothy" sidepull. One of us is better in open hand, though, and he bumped right to the rail, flagged out hard, and brought his left hand to the incut crimp before going up to the tooth. Brutal beta, much more difficult. So much fun to finally send! Mar 31, 2023