Type: Trad, Boulder, 20 ft
FA: Justin Edl and Rob Phares, 2009
Page Views: 2,419 total · 18/month
Shared By: JNE on May 27, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is a very nice delicate splitter tips highball. You have to hunt around to find the good locks, which are sharp and for the most part very positive. Where the crack rocks over you will find big pisitive lie backs as well as more locker thin tips jams. Finish by making a long reach to the obvious cobble in the horizontal to the right of the bush, which is a jug. Down climb to the left upon reaching the obvious ledge. This crack is very distinct because it is has about three feet of forty five degree slab at the base of it. The hardest moves are at the top of the vertical section, but as soon as you step off the slab the climbing is fairly sustained as well as technical, sequential, and balancy.

Location

It is on the cliffline a couple hundred yards to the climber's left of Unknown 1. This is the tall, thin, appealing splitter with the slab landing.

Protection

A couple of pads and a spotter are nice, though the landing on this is unavoidably bad. This is more of a short solo really. You can make a jump off point with your pads but for the top you really just have to commit and do the moves.

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