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Routes in Boat Landing Boulders

Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: Yo Chi Lin
Page Views: 1,411 total, 14/month
Shared By: Justin Briggs on May 26, 2009
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

Stand start two crimps in the middle of the face, paste your feet and hit the top.
Sit start is possible

Location

if you are looking at grounded for life, it is up and to the right.

Protection

a pad or two, pointy rock in the landing

Photos

Hemberger Hemberger
Madison, Wisconsin
Hemberger Hemberger   Madison, Wisconsin
The way he was trying it, he couldn't even pull off the ground...I know how you guys were trying it, and I agree, not V10.

There could have been a really cool right start if the holds hadn't blown off. Who knows. If only the boulder was 10 feet taller of the same type of moves... Nov 22, 2011
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  V7
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  V7
I think, but not 100% sure, that I did this after one of the original start crimp(s) blew off, and no way it's V10. Just painful. Nov 21, 2011
Tried this today. Seems like there's two solid crimps right next to each other to start and a ok foot near the ground. Then just throw for the lip. Vinny did the top out easily but the move off the crimps it tough but doable, I don't think it would be V10. Nov 21, 2011
Hemberger Hemberger
Madison, Wisconsin
Hemberger Hemberger   Madison, Wisconsin
Went out last week to give this beast a go with Kelsen and folks. Entire second hold is blown off. You could see the perfect outline of where it used to be and a big, wet spot. Major bummer.

I figured out some new beta off of the same start holds that would probably maintain the grade, however the moves put you at risk of tumbling down the drop off...didn't have it in me to try it.

Kelsen found beta that starts out on the abysmal left slopey crimps, but that would probably put the problem at V10+ :) Apr 6, 2010
I really appreciate the insight Dobbe, I suppose it's time for me to move onto less crumbly pastures, haha. Jun 1, 2009
Dobbe  
If the rock was good I would say it would be a good one move hard line but this thing is never going to hold up. Any sit start if it did last to send once could not get any traffic or it would break. Nice send though it was a strong move to establish on the two holds before they broke on me. Jun 1, 2009
Damn, shame to hear about the point breaking off that hold, is whatever's left still usable? Despite the slight awkwardness, I was still psyched to work a sit (I guess I just like crimps too much). Wish I wasn't such a slug today, I woke up at 1pm which kind of eliminated any chance of me making it up there (from the Chicago burbs) by a reasonable time, ugh. Jun 1, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
Dobbe pulled the good point for your index finger off the left crimp, he's just too strong and the rock couldn't hold up. Although a cool and hard line, the rock is a bit chossy. May 31, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
Hey Cheech, a group of us will be out there tomorrow for sure, you guys should come up, the weather looks great. May 30, 2009
Weather.com said that it might rain up there today, if so do you think the park would dry out by tomorrow? If not, I know a couple guys from down here who are planning on heading up there next Saturday (the 6th I believe). May 30, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
We checked it out this morning, looks hard, those holds are small but seem positive. Too wet to give it a try, maybe this weekend? May 29, 2009
Hi John, can do. I'll let Justin know the next time I talk to him. Thanks Sweaty and Remo, the next time you guys are headed out send me a message or something. I work pretty lame hours in regards to week day trips (10-7 every day) but there're always the weekends. May 29, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
Yeah Cheech, nice send. Stoked to go try this one out. May 28, 2009
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
What up cheech! I cleaned this thing for a while last year and tried the sit. went to the biggest crimp hold in the middle of the wall out left from the start and pulled the bugger right off. I then walked away disapointed. lol. I'll have to try the stand up next time around. May 28, 2009
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
Thx for the post Yo Chi Lin. And nice send too.

Perhaps you could have your buddy change the FA to your name. It's nice to know who is doing what. May 28, 2009
Thanks for the welcome Chris! I definitely agree with Steve that a sit will be considerably harder. While trying a sit start a crimp broke off low and right; it was bone dry that day but the hold had some sort of spongy black growth behind it (it wasn't visible until the hold went, otherwise I would've left it alone). In the head on picture you can see where the hold was. What's left miiight be usable. Anywho, gotta hit the hay so I can wake up for work and not be a zombie. If it's dry this weekend I'll probably be up there so maybe I'll see some of you guys around! May 28, 2009
Yeah, I spent a quick afternoon working on this thing with the right hand where you've started and left hand low. Broke off a crimp on the face but haven't just tried the starting with both hands there. will give it a go next time i'm out there. Sit will be WAAAAAAY hard. very bad feet and kind of awkward. well done. May 27, 2009
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  V7
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  V7
Hell yeah, welcome Cheech! Although I was hoping it would be a reference to Cheech and Chong myself... Nice work on the new stuff! May 27, 2009
Hi John, this is "Cheech". My real name is Yo Chi, but most everybody outside of a professional or work-related environment calls me Cheech (chalk it up to an appreciation for brevity, strangely enough it isn't a reference to Cheech and Chong). Although this is my first post I'm already friends with or have met on occasion many of the regulars on here (friends with Sweaty/John, met Remo and Dobbe once or twice, etc.). Sorry to go off topic, I just wanted to show that yes, I am an actual human being. In regards to this problem, the grade is a broad suggestion as it seemed very body type / flexibility dependent (i.e. - no one else was using the rather high left foot that I was, and the low feet are pretty terrible). If it turns out that someone thinks it's wildly off base please put in your two cents, I love the dialogue and open discussion on this website. Thanks for putting up with my long-winded ramble! May 27, 2009
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
Is Chong going to join too. Who is Cheech? How bout a real name in the FA spot. May 27, 2009