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Routes in The Winchester Cave

7 P.M. Show S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
American Prayer S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Bite the Bullet S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Fully Automatic S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Guns 'n Posers S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kill For a Thrill S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Killer Inside Me S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Lung Biscuit S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mr. Sniff S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Puppy Love S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Quick Draws S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ricochet S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Truth or Lies S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Philip Benningfield
Page Views: 629 total, 6/month
Shared By: Scott Hahn on May 24, 2009
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is kind of funky getting off the ground. It involves a kneebar down low - to some good stems - to a rest before the crux bulge halfway up. It is kind of run out to the finish. A long draw out the dihedral overhang helps.

  • **Do not head right onto the death flake after the last bolt. It is hollow and flexes really bad. Head left and lieback - it's easy and safe.***

Location

This route starts just left of Bite the Bullet. It is the first route that starts in the talus.

Protection

10 draws plus 2 for the anchors.

Photos

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D-Storm
  5.13a/b
D-Storm  
  5.13a/b
There are several ways to do the crux. No matter which way you choose, clipping the bolt in the bulge is going to be tricky. If you skip that bolt, beware that the bolt below it has a nut that keeps coming loose. I tightened it down with a wrench, and it was loose by the time I returned, so I felt like clipping the bolt in the crux was a good idea, even though the clip was kind of a crux in itself.

I also noticed the big block near the top is sort of loose. It's definitely hollow, and I used it with caution. I didn't like the left lieback beta, as I pulled off a few chips of rock going that way. I think the big block is safe enough as long as you don't pull outward. I used a finger lock there, pulling straight down for balance as I worked my feet up and it seemed fine. Jun 10, 2013