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Routes in Oxygen Wall

Cracker Boy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Key Lime Sky S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lungshot S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Methane S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Space Chicken S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Jason Stevens
Page Views: 3,336 total, 32/month
Shared By: darrell hodges on May 23, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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138 Opinions

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Description

Very long for such a moderate route.
There is a fun move over a short overhanging section at the very top.
The bolt line zig zags a bit so rope drag gets heinous. It would probably be helpful to use a couple of long slings in the middle.
I can see why it was bolted this way because the left-most bolts force you out onto the edge of the arete where it is exciting if you look down.

Location

the right most route on Oxygen Wall

Protection

13 bolts to chains.

You probably want to use a 70M rope. Watch the end when lowering if using a 60. You would probably have to walk up the slope to lower with a 60 meter rope.
Nick Coletti
  5.8
Nick Coletti  
  5.8
Loved this route. The space between the first and second bolt had my FULL attention, but after that it was smooth sailing through some 4 star maple canyon coble. Didn't notice any rope drag using quick draws, and all the holds were solid throughout the line which included some straying. Mind=Blown Oct 6, 2017
Jim Clarke
Cottonwood Heights, UT
Jim Clarke   Cottonwood Heights, UT
Popular and crowded on the weekends...hit it 1st thing early or way late. Jun 11, 2017
James Hicks
Grand Junction, CO
 
James Hicks   Grand Junction, CO
 
Great cruiser route. Well bolted, to the point I climbed past the last bolt without noticing. 70m was plenty long. Jul 5, 2016
B-Dubs
 
B-Dubs  
 
split161 must have been climbing with a 60M rope not a 70M. Both ends will touch the ground with about 10 ft to spare if you are climbing on a 70M Jun 5, 2016
lech
  5.8
lech  
  5.8
For a beginner climb this thing could use more bolts. Feet like some bolts where spaced 12 to 15 ft that could be a 30 ft fall. Just saying to think before you tell your newbie friend to lead this one. Feb 22, 2016
James Cranston
Boulder, CO
  5.8+
James Cranston   Boulder, CO
  5.8+
Hit this on your way out for sure! Fun movement up good holds for days. Yeah, the guidebook is correct - the harder moves are at the beginning and past the small overhang to the anchors. Agree with other comments that bolt finding is a bit tricky (esp. the last bolt). The final moves are difficult for 5.8. Don't forget to turn around and enjoy the view! Knot those rope ends for this one ;) Aug 30, 2015
Jenn Krogue
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Jenn Krogue   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Agreed with Tara. That last bolt was really hard to see.
Didn't see it until I was lowering. Just skip it.
Definitely need a 70m. Very enjoyable long route. Jun 1, 2015
Tara Hansen  
 
the last bolt before chains is awkward along with one more inconvenient one half way up the route (easier to skip them if you can). BRING RUNNERS for the middle section to reduce drag! Don't forget to enjoy the view from up top! Sep 15, 2014
Kenan
  5.9
Kenan  
  5.9
This is a really long route and has great exposure and views. I thought it felt more like 5.9. BEWARE LOOSE COBBLES on this one. At one point my foothold blew out instantaneously and I took a 25-footer. YIKES. If it weren't for the dirt and loose cobbles I would have given this 3 or 4 stars. Perhaps it will clean up a bit with some traffic. Also note that I was *just* able to lower to the ground with a 60. Just a foot or so of slack to spare on each side. Sep 26, 2011
split161
  5.9-
split161  
  5.9-
this was a good route, very long, more like 70ft to the middle chains and 120ft to the top!!...thought it climbed harder than 5.8 probably more like 5.9...thought it was harder than say Zen Fen which is a 5.9

warning: If you climb to the very top, when lowering with a 70M rope it will come up about 7 feet short of the ground, belayer had to step up on ledge and climber clipped into the first bolt with a long runner, untied rope and unclipped runner and downclimbed to get down, bring about 18+/- Draws including anchors for the whole thing May 29, 2011
Jason Stevens
Ephraim, UT
 
Jason Stevens   Ephraim, UT
 
The route is called Key Lime Sky. Thanks! Glad you like it! Jason May 6, 2010