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Routes in World's Greatest Boulder

Love Shack S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b V5+ 6C+
Mad Beef S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pocket Rocket S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Size Ain't Shit S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, TR, 30 ft
FA: Charlie Chapman
Page Views: 1,082 total · 10/month
Shared By: Aaron Merriam on May 23, 2009
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

Short but good route on the Worlds Greatest Boulder. Starts on a sidepull and strong moves up to the obvious line running up right. Move along the good holds to get to the crux. Move off the good holds to a solid vertical slot with your left. Pull hard into this to a small sloping dish with a good thumb-catch with your right and set high feet. Pull off the dish up left to a sloping topout scramble.

Location

The boulder is located at the edge of the water after taking a right out of the main canyon and walking 300-400 feet down river. The route is on the canyon side of the boulder.

Protection

This route can be either toproped or lead. The lead is a bit scary with only 2 bolts and a groundfall from the clip at the second bolt. Good toprope anchors but be sure to have a few feet of slings to get the over the edge.

Photos

Just a little history here to set the record straight. Fall of 1986? Bill Gooch, Jeff Johnson and I top roped this and decided that the first of us to free it would sit back and watch the other two put in a bolt each and then the winner would get the first try to lead it. I won and Pocket Rocket became the first route with bolts at Reimer's Ranch. The bolts were hand drilled self tapping caving anchors that fortunately have been replaced. Thanks to Bill and Jeff for helping jump start my motivation to develop the early climbs at Reimer's. Also the route originally used an old style #1.5 Friend at the horizontal crack between the 2 bolts. Dec 30, 2009
Danny Androos
Austin, TX
Danny Androos   Austin, TX
Definitely worth setting up a toprope for this one. You can walk up the back side and set it up pretty easily. Then it becomes a V1/V2 highball boulder problem with protection. :D Feb 27, 2018

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