Raven Steals the Sun
Avg: 3.2 from 6 votes
Routes in La Vista
|Daisy T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13|
|Raven Steals the Sun T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 800 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Jason Patton and Kevin Jaramillo, August 07|
|Page Views:||1,722 total, 17/month|
|Shared By:||Jason J Patton on May 22, 2009|
|Admins:||Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
DescriptionFrom the tree a top the main face after the notch rap straight down ~190' to a stance with a pin and a bolt. From there rap ~60'until you can see a nice belay ledge with a pin and a bolt. You have to swing with a bit of effort to reach this as it will be off to your right a ways. We left a link on the fixed pin but it is wise to leave a draw here as the rope was tough to pull. From here rap to a tree covered ledge ~100 (The Living Room). Walk north across the ledge and scramble down to a big spruce and rap straight down 190' to another big tree. One last long rap to the ground from here.
P1-(12A): A stiff warm up especially when its cold. Start right of a little hole/cave beneath a clean slab split by a right leaning seam with fixed pins in it. Climb up on good edges to gain the seam. Crank the tips seam pasting your feet on slippery, bullet granite to a right facing, thin flake. Climb straight up through a break and step left at the top of the flake and over to a small stance with a little tree. Crank some bouldery moves on some rounded knobs and pinches to gain a nice clean left facing corner which ends at a tree belay and a good ledgy stance.
P2-(5.9): Climb up right for a couple easy moves then back left and up pull up over a roof with a wide crack on its right. Pull the roof on jugs with good feet. Work right towards a nice looking finger crack. Climb the crack and pull around a pillar to a grassy ledge. climb up and right on a ramp with loose blocks on it. Avoid the blocks to the right and climb up into an offwidth. Climb up the offwidth and out left over a roof. This puts you back on a good ledge where the second to last rappel anchor is. Scramble back up to the right and into the Living room and belay there if your rope drag is not too bad or belay at the rap anchor tree and do another short pitch to the living room.
P3/4-(11c): Climb up the Raven pillar and the steep handcrack to the top. Stand on the Raven's head and step out right into a shallow dihedral. Climb this to a steep roof. Step right to clip an optional fixed pin and a get a good rest. Step back left and crank out and around the roof to the right onto a slopey ledge. step right again and follow a ramp up and left to a nice ledge. Clip a bolt here and crank some bouldery moves up under a roof to a fixed pin. Follow a right facing corner on thin holds to its end and pull up onto a really nice belay ledge.
P5-(10d): Climb up under the roof and follow it out to its left end where you can turn it into a nice left facing corner. Climb the nice crack up to another roof and turn it up and right to the belay.
P6-(11c): Kevin thought this was the crux. I thought P1 to be harder. this pitch requires some technical foot work. Head up and right on small crimps and small but sticky feet past three bolts and some small gear. Head up into a left facing corner on small features then pull up and right out of it and do a long upward trending right traverse on thin features past 7 fixed pins. Stay on your feet and you'll be happy on this pretty face. From the last pin go pretty much straight up on easier climbing (5.10ish) to the belay at a tree. Watch rope drag on this one.