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Routes in La Ventana Del Sol Rock (temporary name)

Acid House V6 7A
La Ventana Del Sol T V4 6B
Type: Trad, Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Nathan Manly?
Page Views: 1,076 total, 10/month
Shared By: JNE on May 21, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is a really nice, forty five degree overhanging, forty five degree right-leaning, tight hand crack. Start matched in the lowest tight hands and climb out to the awkward lip encounter. There is also a lower start I put up that goes at about V8 or V9. For this one, start on the tips locks just down from the regular start, crossing into the regular starting jams. This adds a couple of fun and difficult moves. This is definitely one of the prettiest lines around in my opinion.

Location

On the right side of the main cluster of Coyote Rocks locate the totem pole looking tower of rock. Follow the gully directly to the right of this up and over the saddle in the formation, then down the other side. This is on the big, obvious boulder a little ways down the hill and in the woods, facing uphill.

Protection

One pad is fine.

Photos

I am a little confused about the start of this. I will post a picture soon to aid in my description.

For me, the lowest reasonable start is on two slopers down at the bottom of the crack. They are not tight hand jams for me though, and I am starting on credit card crimp feet. After that, there are two distinct hand jam pods, then the lip encounter, which is awkward.

Just below them there is a chalky area that could be the tips locks, and there are two hand jams above that.

It felt much harder than V4 to me to pull from the slopers, into the the hand jams, and then topout, but it felt (maybe) easier than V4 to start in the good hand jams. The bouldering guidebook unhelpfully says "handcrack roof," which typifies the terse entries therein.

Anybody know more about this? Sep 21, 2016