Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset)
Trad, 120 ft,
Avg: 3.5 from 2
FA: Jim Brink, Dick Holm - 1986
> Devils Tower
> W Face
June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure
VOLUNTARY JUNE CLIMBING CLOSURE
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE (Effective March 15)
A complete and regularly updated list of closed routes can be found on the park’s website. nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Very nice face climbing along a grassy seam. This is a great direct start to the all time classic finger crack of One Way Sunset. No fixed gear with this start and a pure line. Well worth doing. Crux is near the top just before it joins the regular start. Insecure and foot intensive for several moves at the crux. Books all say 12a. May be soft for the grade. The Wrong Way start by itself does not warrant 4 stars but when combined with the finger crack on One Way Sunset it is a super classic pitch.
Starts just right of the normal One Way Sunset start. It is the direct line up to the beautiful finger crack of One Way.
pro is better than it appears from below, however, I don't think this is led very often. I had to clean the seam on rap with a nut tool to expose the stopper placements. Good medium stoppers, one or two rps, and a few small cams provide good protection although it is a little spaced through the mid section of the route. The top finger crack of One Way Sunset protects perfectly with small cams.