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Right Couloir from Boren Creek

5.3 PG13, Trad, Alpine, Grade III,  Avg: 4 from 1 vote
FA: Probably by some miners around 1900
Colorado > Alpine Rock > San Juans > Babcock Peak

Description

You will want to find a good way up the wall to your left. Once you reach the notch, we found it easiest to go up to the left of the prominent chimney. The chimney might be a good alternative, but it was iced up when we climbed it in late May. We free-soloed the way up but down climbed while being roped in for the descent do to loose rock. With good route finding, you should be able to find a way up without exceeding 5.3 or so. Again, watch for loose rock. Glissade back to the road.

Location

From the top of Boren Creek basin, head right up the scree field, aiming for the right most couloir. In early season (earlier than July), most of the couloir could be covered in snow so an ice axe and crampons are recommended. Once you reach the notch, Babcock Peak will be on your left and Middle Babcock will be on you right with a cool looking pinnacle directly in front of you.

Protection

Helmet, rack of stoppers, and a 30 meter rope. There is a sling at the top to assist in the descent.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Climbing up into farthest left couloir.  5/2/2009.
[Hide Photo] Climbing up into farthest left couloir. 5/2/2009.
The pinnacle just north of Middle Babcock.
[Hide Photo] The pinnacle just north of Middle Babcock.
Tom Willis crossing avalanche field.
[Hide Photo] Tom Willis crossing avalanche field.
Conditions on May 2, 2009 during a snow storm.
[Hide Photo] Conditions on May 2, 2009 during a snow storm.
A view from the top.
[Hide Photo] A view from the top.
Thad approaching Babcock Peak. The technical climbing begins at the notch on the left side of the picture.
[Hide Photo] Thad approaching Babcock Peak. The technical climbing begins at the notch on the left side of the picture.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Sam Spector
Dunedin, NZ
[Hide Comment] We took a rope but didn't use it in May conditions. Near the top of the couloir, you'll see the chimney referred to in the route description. Below that is the 5.3 wall they climbed (I think). Below that is a ramp that will take you around the arete and let you bypass the steeper wall - it was just a Class 3 scramble all the way. May 26, 2021