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Routes in Lower Cathedral Rock

76 Degrees in the Shade T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Beggar's Buttress T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bridalveil Falls East T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crack immediately right of Unnamed But Beautiful T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
East Buttress T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
End of The Line T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gash T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Geek For A Week S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Giblit S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Groom's Variation, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0
Gunsight T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
King and I S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
King for a Day S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Kung Fu Panda T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mac Daddy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mecca Lite S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Meccaphobia S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mechanical Advantage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Myth of Sessyphus, The T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Overhang Bypass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Overhang Overpass T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Peasant S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pilgrimage (New North Face) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Right from "76 Degrees in the Shade" T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scrubby Corner S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spectacle S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sub-Mission T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Survivor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Too Many Darts (Free Ascent) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unnamed N3 with chimney start T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unnamed but Beautiful T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Velvet Elvis S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Jerry Anderson, Sigrid Anderson, Lynnea Anderson, fall/2001
Page Views: 1,286 total, 12/month
Shared By: tallmark515 on May 19, 2009
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Lots of crack climbing, mostly .9 with a few .10- moves (at the top, after pulling the roof) and one short .10c crux section. Crux is near the bolt and involves a mantle, a high right foot and a powerful reach up and to the right to a solid jug rail.

Top of route is a little strenuous but not technical.

Short approach, North Facing and in the shade. Good for hot valley days.

Location

When facing the wall from the trailhead, route is about 100 feet to the right.

Protection

1 bolt, gear - Doubles of .3-1 (Camalots), Singles of 2-4, med. nuts. Bolted anchor at top. 70M rope to get down.

Photos

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John Hovell
San Francisco, California
John Hovell   San Francisco, California
Bolt is back! Was glad to see it as the smallest gear I had -- red x4 -- wasn't going to fit. Maybe the smallest Lowe ball would fit? Fun route. You can avoid needing a 70 by rapping to chains at the top of 76 degrees. A little awkward but it works. Jul 16, 2014
BrianWS
  5.10c
BrianWS  
  5.10c
I climbed this just prior to the chop. I definitely made use of the bolt on the onsight. The mantel crux didn't seem too bad. Jan 28, 2013
Alexey
San Jose
Alexey   San Jose
bolt chopper has no brain, just un ego.
I do not see any good reasons to chop a bolt placed by FA party at the crux at the place where other options of solid pro is questionable. And plus this bolt had already documented in climbing books and people expecting to find it.
The only reason I can see - that chopper want to spray about it Sep 9, 2012
Glad to hear about the bolt removal. I'll admit that I clipped it on my on-sight, even though I had my black alien racked as the first piece up front on the gear sling. As it turned out, it was one of the few pieces still on the sling when I reached the chains. Sep 9, 2012
213blc
THA WEST COAST
  5.10c
213blc   THA WEST COAST
  5.10c
Bolt is gone, bring your tiny gear! Sep 9, 2012
This really is a top notch crack climb. FA: Jerry Anderson, Sigrid Anderson, Lynnea Anderson, fall/2001. Jan 6, 2012
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
Excellent route! Long, varied, and thoughtful the whole way. Crux at the bolt seemed soft for 10c. 70m works perfectly.

Route seemed to be heavy on the #0.5 camalot/red alien size to green camalot size. Oct 15, 2011